Tuesday, July 27, 2010

BWOF 9-2008-129 - Gray wool jacket w/ cropped sleeves



***See updated pictures of this jacket here***


Sometimes when trying to document a finished garment, you'll get one that doesn't photograph well. Other times you'll find it just looks plain weird when not on an actual human body. This jacket has the rarity of being both unphotogenic and strangely stubby-armed-looking. I'm including a picture of Burda's jacket on their dummy to give you a better idea of how it would look on something with arms.

This is my jacket for July. I loved the tuxedo looking collar of this design, the front welt pockets, back half belt and fun topstitching. After making it, though, I have decided not to do any more jackets with reglan sleeves. The shoulders tend to not wear as smoothly on my body as traditional set-in sleeves do. See how the Burda jacket has puckers along the outside arm seams? I had to really work to get those to go away on mine, and they'll still probably crop up when I actually put it on. The fabric is a very soft lightweight wool bought from Hancock's last fall. I'm pretty sure the label read 100% wool, but it's not very scratchy and has a slight tendency to wrinkle.

Okay, so what happened to the welt pockets? Well, they just plain intimidate me. I cut out all the pieces and did the markings but couldn't make myself actually sew them in. I kept seeing the finished result as an awful mess right in the front of my jacket - with no fabric left over to recut the front pieces - and psyched myself out.

I had a hard time deciding on what type of topstitching to do. First I tried a single row in the all purpose gray thread being used for construction seams. It was too light. Then I tried heavy duty black thread in a single row, and it was too dark. I finally settled on two rows of gray, just like the example jacket. It's somewhat subdued for my taste; I usually like my topstitching to POP. But then again this does match quite a few garments in my closet, so I suppose I'm glad for it's slight mundane-ness.

I always sew these half belts in before the lining fabric goes on so it's nice and smooth on the inside. After this jacket was completely finished and given a final pressing, I turned it around and discovered one of the belt buttons was noticeably 3/8" higher then the other. Pulling up a few inches of the lining and sewing it in the proper spot wasn't too much of an inconvenience, but still annoying when I thought I through.

The full lining was done with black Ambience. This pattern was first-rate, as is typical for Burda. I love how their interfaced facings never meet the lining at an over-the-bust seam. Instead there's usually a small lining piece in-between the front side and front facing. You just don't see this type of construction on big 4 patterns. (Note that I'm not trying to bash the big 4 pattern companies, but rather to praise Burda. Although not all Burda patterns are perfect either.)

I made this to coordinate with the pink and gray line planned for fall or early spring. It was suppose to go with my most recent pink blouse. However, I didn't end up liking the two pieces together. No matter, there are other planned garments in that line that will go with either this jacket or that blouse. Here I've paired it with this floral tunic and some tan slacks. Squint your eyes a little and maybe you can see past the odd look of pants on a dressform.

Also discovered to be a great match was this charmeuse summer dress from last August. Picture the ensemble complete with gray opaque tights and tall black boots. I'll be able to wear it into late fall.

I have just 4 days to try to squeeze in a 4th project for this month. I have in mind a simple winter dress in a gorgeous patterned purple stretch velvet. Notice I'm not writing "easy" or "fast".

29 comments:

  1. Your jacket looks so much better than the original Burda. Perfectly sewn. Definitely a great wardrobe extender. Both ways you have it styled look great. I love your silky dress too!

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  2. I really like it with the dress. Great combination.

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  3. Lovely jacket! It seams like it would easily go with many things.

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  4. Beautiful jacket! Very versatile too. It goes nicely with your other garments. Lots of nice outfits to look forward to wearing.

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  5. I agree with Mushywear. Your jacket is so much more professional than Burda's version. It's beautiful!

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  6. Your jacket looks so much better than the Burda jacket! It's a great design and you executed it very well.

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  7. Your jackets always look SO professionally made and this one is no exception - as we can all see when looking at the Burda photo, yours is so much better sewn than theirs!! I love the elegance of this jacket - the clean construction lines perfectly complement this neutral grey shade and will go with so many colours and styles. I think your decision to not make the welt pockets was just right - I like the uncluttered look. I think you will get lots of wear out of this beautiful jacket for many years to come.

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  8. Lovely!! I actually like it without he pockets better. Sometimes I think burda puts in pockets just for the sake of pockets. It looks wonderful with the charmeuse dress. What a great wardrobe expander!

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  9. I think your jackets are beautiful. I loved the plum one too! Have a go at welt pockets they are not that hard - I am not as proficient a sewer as yourself but made some many years ago with zip closures and they are fine. Have a go on scrap material first maybe.

    Also did you ever fix up the butt wrinkles on the turquoise dress?? How if you did?

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  10. You did a great job. Jacket looks wonderful and it will be a great wardrobe extender. It looks much better in the grey you selected than Burda's choice. Without pockets it looks simply elegant.

    Christiana
    sewamusing.blogspot.com

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  11. Amanda I must recommend issue 122 of Threads, which was, I think, January 2006. There is a great article in it about foolproof welt pockets. I use this method every time and am never disappointed. And practice prctice practice.

    Wonderful jacket!

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  12. Yet again, wonderful jackets! May I suggest that if you ever decide to try the raglan sleeve with a fabric such as this, try stabilizing the seam allowance with a lightweight fusible interfacing to keep it from stretching as you sew. This will keep your seams smooth.

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  13. La chaqueta te ha quedado muy bonita, el cuello smoquing se ve muy bien terminado mucho mejor que la revista y ademes te combina muy bien con todo.

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  14. The jacket looks marvelous, as do all your garments. It's so well made and I am sure you'll get lots of wear out of this. I especially like the combination with the dress, very nice!

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  15. Your jacket is fabulous and way better than the Burda. Clearly they stuffed the sleeves to help eliminate some of the wrinkle issues. Your topstitching is gorgeous as usual.

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  16. I LOVE this!! I just tried on something similar at Nordies last night, but I like your version so much better. I love both outfits that you paired it with and am excited for your to get good use out of it this fall. :)

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  17. The jacket is beautiful! You did a great job, as always! Out of curiosity, though, have you sewn anything for the baby? I love to see all the things you sew, and was just wondering..

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  18. Beautiful jacket, and as usual, you did a fabulous job constructing it. The buttons on the back are the perfect accent.

    Barb

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  19. The jacket is lovely and you pay great attention to detail.

    ChiChi

    http://www.chillien.etsy.com

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  20. Beautiful jacket! I didn't even notice the buttons or is the picture after you fixed it? Another gorgeous job! :)

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  21. You make the most divine jackets! The dress looks amazing with it, too.

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  22. This is amazing. Your topstitching is so perfect!

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  23. The jacket is one of those classic pieces that can be worn for years in a myriad of ways. Don't let welt pockets intimidate you! They are just like making bound buttonholes on steroids. Do one on something else first just for practice--maybe on the lining of something. That way if it isn't "perfect" only you will know. Keep sewing. You insipire me.

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  24. Beautiful jacket. I love it with the gray dress!

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  25. That is a very couture looking jacket. It's fine without pockets. Nice work, as always.

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  26. I made that jacket back in 2009! Yours turned out fabulous!

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  27. I think it looks beautiful. Burda patterns have shoulders that are drafted more square then other patterns. I love this!

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  28. hello,very nice jacket:):):)from türkey

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  29. Anyone - where can I buy, or subscribe to, the Burda World of Fashion Magazine? The Burda Web site only has a magazine with a different name. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thank you!

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