BWOF 9-2008-129 - Gray wool jacket w/ cropped sleeves

***See updated pictures of this jacket here***

Sometimes when trying to document a finished garment, you'll get one that doesn't photograph well. Other times you'll find it just looks plain weird when not on an actual human body. This jacket has the rarity of being both unphotogenic and strangely stubby-armed-looking. I'm including a picture of Burda's jacket on their dummy to give you a better idea of how it would look on something with arms.

This is my jacket for July. I loved the tuxedo looking collar of this design, the front welt pockets, back half belt and fun topstitching. After making it, though, I have decided not to do any more jackets with reglan sleeves. The shoulders tend to not wear as smoothly on my body as traditional set-in sleeves do. See how the Burda jacket has puckers along the outside arm seams? I had to really work to get those to go away on mine, and they'll still probably crop up when I actually put it on. The fabric is a very soft lightweight wool bought from Hancock's last fall. I'm pretty sure the label read 100% wool, but it's not very scratchy and has a slight tendency to wrinkle.

Okay, so what happened to the welt pockets? Well, they just plain intimidate me. I cut out all the pieces and did the markings but couldn't make myself actually sew them in. I kept seeing the finished result as an awful mess right in the front of my jacket - with no fabric left over to recut the front pieces - and psyched myself out.

I had a hard time deciding on what type of topstitching to do. First I tried a single row in the all purpose gray thread being used for construction seams. It was too light. Then I tried heavy duty black thread in a single row, and it was too dark. I finally settled on two rows of gray, just like the example jacket. It's somewhat subdued for my taste; I usually like my topstitching to POP. But then again this does match quite a few garments in my closet, so I suppose I'm glad for it's slight mundane-ness.

I always sew these half belts in before the lining fabric goes on so it's nice and smooth on the inside. After this jacket was completely finished and given a final pressing, I turned it around and discovered one of the belt buttons was noticeably 3/8" higher then the other. Pulling up a few inches of the lining and sewing it in the proper spot wasn't too much of an inconvenience, but still annoying when I thought I through.

The full lining was done with black Ambience. This pattern was first-rate, as is typical for Burda. I love how their interfaced facings never meet the lining at an over-the-bust seam. Instead there's usually a small lining piece in-between the front side and front facing. You just don't see this type of construction on big 4 patterns. (Note that I'm not trying to bash the big 4 pattern companies, but rather to praise Burda. Although not all Burda patterns are perfect either.)

I made this to coordinate with the pink and gray line planned for fall or early spring. It was suppose to go with my most recent pink blouse. However, I didn't end up liking the two pieces together. No matter, there are other planned garments in that line that will go with either this jacket or that blouse. Here I've paired it with this floral tunic and some tan slacks. Squint your eyes a little and maybe you can see past the odd look of pants on a dressform.

Also discovered to be a great match was this charmeuse summer dress from last August. Picture the ensemble complete with gray opaque tights and tall black boots. I'll be able to wear it into late fall.

I have just 4 days to try to squeeze in a 4th project for this month. I have in mind a simple winter dress in a gorgeous patterned purple stretch velvet. Notice I'm not writing "easy" or "fast".