BWOF 8-2008-115 - Plum wool military jacket

***An updated picture of me wearing this jacket can be viewed here***

This design is from the very first Burda magazine I ever received, then BWOF. I've been planning to make it ever since this post when I bought the fabric and buttons. It's one of the longest planned garments in my stash, and it feel really good to finally get it done.

I always enjoy a detailed fitted design, so it is no wonder I was drawn to this one. There is a lot going on! The front welts are purely decorative. This pattern does provide pockets bags, but after making this jacket earlier in the year, I learned those front pockets just don't receive that much use. The sleeves have some interesting outside shaping tucks that look a little like whiskers to me.


One thing I really like about this jacket is the feminine back peplum. From the front it's all business and military-looking, but in the back it's got a bit of frill. Very fun. You can see here at the back the decorative buttoning tabs of the sleeves and the little half belt. There are 17 buttons on this jacket, people. That is a lot of buttons to sew on!!!

The front collar, yoke, tabs, welts and opening edges are all topstitched.

This fabric is a super scratchy wool purchased from Hancock's in January 2009. I remember the description on the bolt as being 100% wool, but it has some long hairs in the weave that look a bit like alpaca. It's sure to be warm come winter, and has to be layered over clothing with neck coverage - otherwise it's too itchy. BTW, I use to think wools couldn't be steamed and had a hard time sewing with them. I'm not sure where I got that idea from, but have since figured out that they iron wonderfully with lots of hot steam.



I didn't encounter one fitting issue and cut a straight 38. The one thing I did change was to give it a full lining. Why Burda only does a flimsy partial lining in a wool jacket is a mystery to me. That funny lone white button fastens on the inside. I'll probably purchase a clear one and replace it eventually.

This lining fabric is generic polyester, picked to match the color of the wool.

I'm counting this as my jacket for June, even though it was sewn entirely in July. It was a ton of work, but I LOVE it, so was totally worth the effort. I've got another jacket all ready to cut out, but am going to make the matching knit top first to give myself an easy fast project.