Thursday, May 26, 2016

Simplicity 2187 - Red & white geometric print jumpsuit

I'm trying something different with my newest project - a jumpsuit. (I was calling it a romper but that sounds like something a toddler would wear.) This pattern has capri-length pant legs which I cut off to shorts before cutting into my fabric.

The fabric is viscose jersey from Mood fabrics and has been used by quite a few of my fellow MSN bloggers. I waited forever to purchase it and was only able to get a yard. There was also a black color way but unfortunately they've both sold out. This was my first time using viscose jersey and I really enjoyed working with it. I laundered it before cut out and it came out of the dryer looking exactly like it did when it went in the washer.

Others who've used this pattern have complained that there was too much fabric in the upper part of the shorts, resulting in a saggy rear end. I decided to cut my typical knit size of 10 as drafted, with the knowledge that I could always cut fabric off the top of the shorts if that was the case with mine. After basting the shorts and top together and trying it on, I could see that I didn't need to remove any fabric after all. I do have a long torso; someone with a normal length torso might find it too long.

The center fronts are suppose to be finished with facings and the back neckline with bias tape. It's been awhile since I worked with bias tape, though, and I guess I forgot how to do it effectively. In an effort to try to save the project from the trashcan I decided to try fold over elastic in a contrasting color. This is the first time I've worked with it and I wasn't sure what to expect. I had to play around with how much to stretch it and did end up restitching things a few times, but I love the effect!

The fronts don't exactly meet at a modest point, hence the camisole.

I used some black ponte from my stash to edge the belt with. I had to do a lot of stitching in the ditch by hand all along the black edges. The belt took just as long to make as the jumpsuit did but I love the way it turned out.

I used 3/4" elastic for the waist instead of the called for 1/4" and topstitched it down from the outside. The bottom of the shorts were hemmed with a wide twin needle.

I finished all the interior seams with the overlocking stitch on my sewing machine. Knits don't ravel but I like the finished look of it on the inside.

It remains to be seen how much wear I get out of this jumpsuit. I love the way it turned out and think it looks well made but it's just not the type of thing I see anyone else around here wearing. Maybe I'll save it for date night..

Note: This fabric was purchased with my Mood Fabrics monthly allowance, as part of my participation in the Mood Sewing Network.

Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Butterick 6175 - Boxy floral top w/ scalloped hem

This fabric is a longtime stash resident. I think I got it from Gorgeous Fabrics years ago and only bought one yard for some reason. At 45" in width, it really wasn't big enough to do much with, so I decided on a boxy cropped top.

This was a really easy pattern to stitch up. I cut the size 10 and made no adjustments to the pattern for fit.

The directions for the scallops are not very helpful IMO. All they instruct you to do is trim the fabric close to the stitching and clip up to the V of each scallop completion. That will result in some choppy half circles. Instead you need to grade the seams and notch the curves aggressively. I did a tutorial on this years ago. Check it out if you're interested.

I sewed three buttons on the back instead of the called for one. I found these shell buttons in my loose button container. I like how their iridescent colors match the colors of the print.

Next time I use this pattern I will cut the neckline down in the front as it's a tiny bit too high for my choke phobia.

Dressform pictures:

All edges of this design are finished off with facings, which I had to cut in a white stretch cotton from my stash due to fabric shortage. I tacked the facings to the outer fabric with a running whip stitch. If using a thinner fabric then cotton sateen, I would suggest finishing off the armholes and neckline with bias bindings.

All fabric edges were finished with the overlocking stitch on my regular sewing machine.

I just ordered some high-waisted white shorts from Gap to wear with this top. If I don't like the way those look I'll probably make Butterick 6178 (view D) to complete the outfit.

Monday, May 2, 2016

McCall's 7351 - Sleeveless shirtdress in white, green and black floral

Shirt dresses seem to be everywhere right now and this particular pattern is getting a lot of online love. I actually bought this pattern for the pointed hemline view, but decided to give it a go with a longtime stash fabric that I believe I bought locally a number of years ago.

This is a great pattern with lots of nice details - front button band, collar with collar stand, bias bound armholes, pockets, shirttail hemline - but what I love most about it is the way it skims the body but is still loose and comfortable. I've seen this dress belted by a number of others but I plan to wear mine just as you see it here. I cut my typical size 12 and made zero changes for fit. The length was a bit long for my preference so I did cut off 2" before hemming.

This fabric was not fun to sew with. It's 100% polyester and really resisted ironing. I love the print, though, and the fabric has a gridline texture that can be seen in the below close-up. Even though I hated working with it, the dress does not wrinkle in the least when it's worn. It will be great to throw into a suitcase and take on trips.

I love patterns that have pleated center backs instead of gathering. They lay nice and flat against the skin.

Of course I love all the topstitching on this dress and chose to do mine in black. Originally I sewed on black square buttons, but they completely disappeared on the dress so I replaced them with some simple white ones. I will always opt for pockets on the bodice of garments to give my bustline a little oomph.

When I make this pattern again I plan to raise the armholes about 1/2" as they're a little low. My undergarments don't show but I have low-set armpits (if that even is a thing) so keep that in mind if you're planning to make this dress.