Saturday, October 18, 2008

McCall's 5522 - Tuxedo inspired white blouse

I saw a bunch of these tuxedo-looking shirts at the mall a few weeks ago. (I went there to buy jewelry, not clothing. I'm still sticking to my make everything for a year challenge.) Anyway, I really liked the look, but couldn't find anything like it among the pattern companies I browse. Then I remembered this pattern I had in my stash. I didn't like the big ruffle down the center at first glance, but by cutting it down to only 1" wide and ironing it flat, it morphed into exactly what I wanted.

I made view B, the one in the middle. As I didn't like any of the sleeve options that came with this pattern, I swapped them for the shorter sleeves of McCall's 5630. Then I got a little indecisive and wondered if maybe a shorter sleeve might look better:

Definitely not! Here's the side view. You can see the cute cuffs and button closure.

Here's a close-up of the front ruffle. You can also see the texture of the fabric as well. I love this design, with fitted mid-section, bust gathers, and collar supported with a collar stand.

Close-up of sleeve detail:

When I started this blouse, I knew I wanted to wear it with this vest I made last month. So when it came time to make the button holes, I made sure the buttons above and below the vest were situated in a pleasing position. I like this better then the white blouse I took the vest pictures with, which I found a bit plain.

Shall we look at the insides? I did all the vertical sewing in french seams, and put bias tape around the armhole and middle seams. The collar and facings were slip-stitched, which this fabric made very brutal for some reason. It doesn't feel very thick, but must be tightly woven because needles didn't go through it easily.


Up next is Vogue 8409, with the 3/4 sleeves, in a cute dark denim. I'm not planning to line it, so am hoping it will be a quick project.

22 comments:

  1. I am glad to read about your adventure with this blouse. I just made this and wanted to do the ruffle but did not have enough fabric. I like your idea of reducing the width of the ruffle, I will be copying your idea with my next blouse. You did a great job with the seam finishes. Looks great with the vest. I also like the sleeves, I use one of the fuller sleeves with this pattern. They are okay but like yours much better.

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  2. OOooo, very pretty! I've got this pattern and really need a white blouse from it...gotta get on that...

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  3. it turned out perfectly! i love the way you combine patterns to get exactly the look you are hoping for. i am still amazed at the attention to detail - even the insides. you are inspiring me to make more of my clothes so that i can get the look and fit that is right for my body. i just don't think i'll be showing the seams to anyone when i do. ;) :)

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  4. Amanda, I really love your execution of this blouse. Love it, especially when you wear it with the little vest. Hm... don't tempt me, for my sewing list is soooo long already!

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  5. It's fabulous! I love the "new" sleeves, I think they look much better and original! Very well done!

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  6. Great blouse and like all of your modifications.

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  7. I've got that pattern, and love your changes to it! So, so, so great with the vest! Your work is crazy clean, everytime I don't use my serger I think, "Amanda wouldn't approve..." Ha!

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  8. Me again... had to let you know I was at Joann's today, and when I saw that McCalls were 99 cents, I bought the blouse pattern just for those short sleeves!!! And some white striped tone on tone shirting. Now if I could just move to Texas...

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  9. Kristine - you probably got the same shirting I used. I just purchased it there a few week back. Be ready with a thimble should you need to do any hand sewing!

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  10. Amanda, it's really nicely made shirt. I am tempted to make one exactly the same with the two patterns you used. Good that Joann is having a McCall pattern sale right now!
    Also, one question, you mentioned that it's tighter than a regular Big 4 pattern, could you give me a sense of how tight it is? You said you are cutting a size 12 now, but what size do you usually use?
    Thanks!! Beautiful job!!

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  11. How gorgeous!!!!! I don't think I've noticed that pattern before and I now have to pick it up! Love the changes you made to the sleeves!

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  12. Kennis - I usually do cut a 12, so the shoulder area and bust fit as per usual. But I had to grade the sides out 1/4" wider for each side piece, resulting in a 1" wider waist.

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  13. I liked the shirt when I first saw your picture. But when I saw it paired with that vest, Oh my! Love it!

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  14. Beautiful work!! I've got a blouse on the go right now and I'm stumped about how to finish the armholes. I like the look of what you did - would you mind sharing your technique?

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  15. Alicia - Once I sewed the sleeve in, I trimmed the seam allowance to approx. 3/8", then covered it with that thin double fold bias tape. I fold the ends of the bias tape in so it doesn't ravel. It's really easy to do. I don't have a serger and have always hated the zig-zag finishes I had to do to stop raveling before I discovered this technique. It's a clean finish without much added bulk.

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  16. Thanks Amanda! I will have to get that blouse finished now :-)

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  17. Great top! I love the vest over it.
    I made this pattern up last year and haven't worn the top. I may have to give it another try.

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  18. Love your blouse. This is one I plan to make too. Thanks for the review.

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  19. It's fabulous, once again! You have certainly inspired me to start watching for the pattern sales at Joann's! Beautifully done. I do like the finishing seam detail very much.

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  20. this is gorgeous!!! I think Imight have this one in stash. I have to make that vest too, I forgot all about it. You are my sewing muse, LOL!

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  21. I am currently working on this pattern. I love your version!! But mine is making me curse. A lot. I am making it in charmeuse, and that fabric loves to slither around. I think I need to buy some of that spray on/wash out fabric stabilizer and save myself the headache.

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