Simplicity 2512 - Pink floral silk charmeuse tulip skirt

I honestly bought this pattern for view D, which I made last October. I never intended to make view B because, although I loved the shaped yoke and contrast binding, I didn't think the tulip shape would look good on me. However, somehow this silk spoke to me and told me it wanted to be this skirt. It said, "Look, I'm a big print so I need something that isn't too cut up. And I'm lightweight so the gathers won't poof out around your waist. And you only have about 11/4 yards of me and can't find any other pattern that will work. Please, give the tulip shape a chance!" Fabric speaks to you sometimes, right? Tell me I'm not the only crazy one this happens to.

 So after my success with silk earlier this month, I decided to listen to my fabric and make the tulip skirt. Success! I think it's pretty cute. I probably will not be making a whole bunch of these - the straight skirt is still my preferred silhouette - but I think it's fun for being different.

Both of the fabrics used are silk charmeuse and were purchased at separate times from Denverfabrics.com. The funny thing about silk charmeuse is that I love to buy it but hate to sew it. Wiggly/shifty/fiddly fabrics are no fun to work with. There are at least 10 cuts of it in my stash that I lovingly fondle and never cut into! However, I have developed a way of working with silk charmeuse that is pain free. First I wash it in the washing machine and dry it. Then I true up one side by pulling a thread across it and trim off the excess. I get it laid out with straight sides and right angles at the trued end and spray it with two coats of starch. (Let one coat dry before applying the other.) It becomes stiff enough to work with and doesn't shift around anymore. Then after the garment is completed I throw it into the washer to remove the starch. I find this method especially helpful when using charmeuse cut on the bias, like the contrasting black on this skirt.

I decided to leave off the pockets because what exactly was I going to put in them except my hands? Also, I thought they might add bulk to the sides and this skirt already had enough extra fabric in that area. I also decided to leave off the ties. The reason for that was I rather like the appearance of a tiny waist that I get when wearing this. Every other part of my outfit is blousy - the waist is the only fitted detail - and I couldn't see putting a tie in that area that would add volume.

I wanted to add a full lining so that I could wear this skirt in the winter with tights. Also, it's silk. I always feel like silk deserves a lining. Now Ambiance is my preferred lining fabric, but I have found that it does not wash well. I went with a polyester chiffon in order not to add bulk to the gathers. It was starched as well.

I had to change the order of construction a bit to get the neat insides I like so much. The facing had to be completely sewn in by hand and the bias binding along the top of the skirt was the last to go on. This way the zipper and any raw edges were totally enclosed by the facings, lining and binding.

That pesky invisible zipper was put in several times before I gave up and basted it in by hand. I never get why some zippers go in really smoothly without much effort while others have me pulling my hair out.

I'm now currently making a muslin of my Easter dress. The plan is to use some gold silk dupioni if I can get the fit ironed out quickly. Eek! I've only left myself a week to get it finished!