Burda Style 2-2012-117B - Wool doubleknit colorblocked dress

Whew, it has been a busy week! We are having some work done on our house and it is completely ripped apart. Construction dust is everywhere and I keep finding nails and other debris laying around waiting for Rachel to find it and put it in her mouth. (Yes, we are still in that phase.) I finally found some time to snap pictures of this dress today, though it has been finished for over a week.

This is one of the dresses I really loved from the awesome Burda February issue. Since I'm completing it only a month later, I'll just give myself a pat on the back. *Pat-pat* Anyway, I wanted to use a fabric a bit beefier then the jersey they used for the magazine dress in order to better support the back zipper. I had all of these wool doubleknits in my stash already, and really liked the way they looked together. The turquoise was a remnant from Vogue 1150 made two years ago (bangs = what was I thinking?!) The dark grey - looks black - and the turquoise were from Denverfabrics.com and the grey and tan are from Fabricmartfabrics.com. I thought this would make a nice spring dress but the wool makes it a bit hot. Maybe if we get some more days in the 70's I'll be able to wear it.

I was really worried that this design would cut right across the bust making me appear even smaller then I am. I even tried to figure out how to alter it to make the turquoise cut straight across instead of at an angle. But the seams have a lot of shaping built into them and I couldn't figure it out. I took a leap of faith because I didn't want to muslin it and thankfully it turned out just fine.

Now, per the reviews over at Patternreview.com, I sewed the backs together first and then attached the zipper as purely decorative. The pattern instructs you to use a 40" zipper. I wanted a slightly shorter dress then they had, and a 38" zipper would have been perfect. Of course I would need to special order it from Zipperstop in NYC as my local fabric stores didn't have anything that I could use. However, Zipperstop stocks zippers at certain lengths, and 36" is the longest I could find without having to pay a huge amount to have one special made. So, this dress turned out a wee bit shorter then originally planned, but with the high neckline I think a shorter skirt totally appropriate.

I realize an exposed zipper isn't everyone's cup of tea, but I really like how it looks on this dress. The brass teeth tie in nicely with the taupe fabric.

This was a straight size 38 made without any fit adjustments. It was a pretty fast project, the only thing really slowing me down was the constant thread changing.

This is a two-way zipper. If I could have found one that had tape extending past the bottom of the zipper tape I would have chosen that option and had a small back vent. Oh well, sometimes I have to take what I can find.

Here you can see both sides without my arms impeding your view. The sleeves have a fun tuck that keeps the sleeve cap fitted around the shoulder. Since I had sewn the backs together and didn't have the opening for the neck that way, I had to keep the fronts separated per the pattern. Some people who've made this design sewed the front opening closed, but I have a big head and knew this fabric would never be able to stretch over it.

For the insides, I used a finishing stitch that Vogue just published an article about. Too bad I can't find my magazine right now. Anyhow, it was extremely timely for use on this dress, and you can see how all of the edges have been neatly finished off. I'm not sure this would work for thinner knits, but it does beautifully on double-knits. If I find my magazine I will amend this paragraph. called The Overlock Foot starting on page 38. My machine actually came with this foot but I had no idea how to use it. (When I bought my machine the store offered a class on learning how to operate it. I arrogantly thought I did not need to take the class as I had been sewing for years and could certainly figure out its bells and whistles on my own. Well, turns out I should have taken it.) I tried the technique on this dress and to my surprised delight the result looks like a small serged finish. I am excited about the possibilities with this stitch and can't wait to try it out on other knits. And FYI, I do not own a serger because I have no space to put one. I always get that question so I'll just answer it before I get asked.

Also, I applied interfacing to the bottom of the taupe section, in order that the snaps had something stable to be sewn onto.

I like this dress quite a bit. It is an interesting design totally on trend with all the colorblocking I've been seeing lately. Up next is another silk garment in a new-to-me shape that I'm really hoping will turn out flattering. Then I'll have to get moving on an Easter dress before I run out of time!