Saturday, February 6, 2010

Vogue 8480 - Tan twill jacket

Here's my jacket for January. In case you don't recall, I'm attempting to make at least one jacket each month. I lost my sewing mojo earlier in January, but it seems to finally have returned.

I've adored this pattern since it came out 2 years ago. I love the interesting front and back vents, side buttoning closure, bell sleeves, and loads of topstitching. It was cut out in December of 2008, but then I got stuck thinking about the inside finishes. I wanted something unlined and washable since it's such a light color and casual wear. But the front pieces have some difficult angles, and I couldn't figure out how to apply the bias tape with clean results. Then I thought to line it but couldn't grasp how to cut the front lining to accommodate the pleats below the pockets. So the whole thing got put aside, something I rarely do.

This pattern is very well drafted. The back collar has a curved integrated collar stand, my first time sewing something like that. The back topstitched sleeve seams match up perfectly with the back princess seams of the body.

I used heavy duty polyester thread for the topstitching. This heavier thread really pops out against fabric.

The only thing I changed about this pattern was the button placement. They have you install the bottom button below the pocket topstitching. This is too low on a jacket IMO, and creates a somewhat ballooned midsection with too much space in between the buttons and the extra fabric from the pockets; especially with this medium weight cotton twill that I chose. I left off the top button and button hole and the inside hidden button because they were unnecessary.

Here's the inside finished with three packages of bias tape. I'm a little sick of bias tape at the moment, believe it or not. But it did make a very nice finish and I can now throw this in the washer if it gets soiled.

And just in case anyone wants to make this with bias tape, I've included a picture of how I finished the front sections.

Next up I'm planning a billowy chiffon top to wear with this jacket and peek out from underneath. I know it seems like I've moved on to spring sewing but I honestly haven't. There's still loads of winter sewing begging to be made up.

52 comments:

  1. Very lovely coat!!! The topstitching is lovely and really accentuates the coat's design lines. I can't wait to see your top!!!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Simply stunning. Did I miss what fabric you used??

    ReplyDelete
  3. JoanneM,
    It's a medium weight cotton twill. :)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Outstanding jacket! It looks fabulous.

    ReplyDelete
  5. This is just so cute! The topstitching looks so good, and the button placement makes a big difference. Now, if I could just find my sewing mojo again!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Fabulous jacket, great inside finishing job.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Wonderful jacket! This style, with its interesting seam lines and topstitching, really shows off your amazing sewing skills. You look fabulous in it.

    ReplyDelete
  8. I made this coat 2 years ago when the pattern first came out and I also love it. Your top stitching is superb! Mine is much more subtle.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Wow! I would have never been drawn to that pattern- but I love your version. That is just too cute on you. Great job!

    ReplyDelete
  10. This is super-cute. I could see this in a sweatshirt fleece too. Nice job!

    ReplyDelete
  11. Lovely jacket and great topstitching detail.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Your jacket looks wonderful! Great job with the top stitching and also the finish on the inside of the jacket.

    ReplyDelete
  13. I love your jacket! The dark buttons and topstitching on the light fabric looks really great. Well done, yet again. :)

    ReplyDelete
  14. Great job!! love the inside finish.

    ReplyDelete
  15. This is such a fine looking jacket, Amanda! Your version is more enticing than Vogey's!

    ReplyDelete
  16. Love the pattern details and your choice of colors. Very nice.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Wow, if that's the start of 'one jacket a month' then you are going to have a fabulous wardrobe of jackets by years end!

    Am in awe of your bias seam finishes too. They are always so neat and well done.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Your details are great. The seam finishes and topstitching are perfect.

    ReplyDelete
  19. You are crazy good - that jacket rocks! It's so well made!

    ReplyDelete
  20. Amazing !!! I am in awe of how neatly you finish your garments .

    ReplyDelete
  21. What a great jacket! I'm especially amazed at how well you put the sleeves in. No wrinkles at all. I'm jealous (in a nice way) but at the same time very much inspired by your garments and this is another good example.

    ReplyDelete
  22. Excellent job!Excellent top-stitching details and inside finish.Excellent jacket!!!

    ReplyDelete
  23. Nice jacket. Love the fabric, the color and the color of the topstitching thread. The size and color of the buttons are awesome

    ReplyDelete
  24. What a cute jacket, Amanda! As always, you did a beautiful job, inside and out. And that topstitching!
    Just perfect.
    Cissie

    ReplyDelete
  25. Great Job!! Very cute jacket. I am glad to hear that you are getting your mojo back. I look forward to seeing your next project.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Looking at the pattern picture, I can see you are exactly right about the button placement. The jacket in the pattern photo looks off balance because of the lower button. Nice sewing, as always, and wonderful finishing in the inside.

    ReplyDelete
  27. You really make me want to sew and sew better - I am really impressed with this jacket, wish it were mine!

    ReplyDelete
  28. That turned out amazing! Your fabric choice and the top stitching, makes it look so much nicer than the Vouge picture.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Great job! The inside looks just as nice as the outside.

    ReplyDelete
  30. Beautiful jacket! The fit and finishing details are wonderful. Looks amazing on you. Great job!!!

    ReplyDelete
  31. Great versatile jacket. What's up for next month?

    ReplyDelete
  32. This is astounding. I never would have looked at this pattern, but you made it look soooooo WOW!!!!. I have to buy it and make it.

    ReplyDelete
  33. Love the white...it looks better than the brown on the pattern envelope. Vogue always seems to do a good job with their drafting...maybe that's why they're my favorite.

    ReplyDelete
  34. It looks awesome! Better than the one on the pattern, for sure!

    ReplyDelete
  35. Your jacket looks great... I always liked this patten but never got around to making it...

    ReplyDelete
  36. So adorable! There is a reason you're my "clean inside finishes" inspiration. :)

    ReplyDelete
  37. From one Texan to another (Houston). You did a great job! I am going to look for this pattern to add to my collection. I definitely could wear this style made into a twill fabric during the late winter and early spring seasons here in Houston. Very nice!

    ReplyDelete
  38. This is great! Better than the envelope picture. And good call on the button placement. Love the cream with the black topstitching too.

    ReplyDelete
  39. Gorgeous! I tried this one once before but now that I'm a little more experienced I might try it again lol.

    ReplyDelete
  40. I bought this pattern on ebay a few months back. Unfortunately I didn't look at the size before bidding. Hopefully I will be able to grade it up because I really do like it.

    ReplyDelete
  41. That is gorgeous and looks better than the photo on the envelope. I am glad I have this pattern, I may need to sew it up this spring.

    ReplyDelete
  42. I love the sleeves. I could see getting a lot of use from this jacket. Just when I thought that acquired all the Vogues that I needed for spring...

    ReplyDelete
  43. Cute jacket!! I love the off center buttons!!!

    ReplyDelete
  44. I think I'm in-love with your coat!

    ReplyDelete
  45. I have always loved this pattern as well. Your version is wonderful!

    ReplyDelete
  46. Fabulous jacket Amanda, you did a superb job!

    ReplyDelete
  47. My goodness you certainly get some sewing hours in. Great jacket, looks good on you.

    ReplyDelete
  48. Incredible job. I actually have this pattern with big "some-day" plans. Seeing it on a real person makes me like it even more!

    ReplyDelete