Vogue 8480 - Tan twill jacket

Here's my jacket for January. In case you don't recall, I'm attempting to make at least one jacket each month. I lost my sewing mojo earlier in January, but it seems to finally have returned.

I've adored this pattern since it came out 2 years ago. I love the interesting front and back vents, side buttoning closure, bell sleeves, and loads of topstitching. It was cut out in December of 2008, but then I got stuck thinking about the inside finishes. I wanted something unlined and washable since it's such a light color and casual wear. But the front pieces have some difficult angles, and I couldn't figure out how to apply the bias tape with clean results. Then I thought to line it but couldn't grasp how to cut the front lining to accommodate the pleats below the pockets. So the whole thing got put aside, something I rarely do.

This pattern is very well drafted. The back collar has a curved integrated collar stand, my first time sewing something like that. The back topstitched sleeve seams match up perfectly with the back princess seams of the body.

I used heavy duty polyester thread for the topstitching. This heavier thread really pops out against fabric.

The only thing I changed about this pattern was the button placement. They have you install the bottom button below the pocket topstitching. This is too low on a jacket IMO, and creates a somewhat ballooned midsection with too much space in between the buttons and the extra fabric from the pockets; especially with this medium weight cotton twill that I chose. I left off the top button and button hole and the inside hidden button because they were unnecessary.

Here's the inside finished with three packages of bias tape. I'm a little sick of bias tape at the moment, believe it or not. But it did make a very nice finish and I can now throw this in the washer if it gets soiled.

And just in case anyone wants to make this with bias tape, I've included a picture of how I finished the front sections.

Next up I'm planning a billowy chiffon top to wear with this jacket and peek out from underneath. I know it seems like I've moved on to spring sewing but I honestly haven't. There's still loads of winter sewing begging to be made up.