Saturday, May 29, 2010

Vogue 2925 - Brown & gray tapestry-look jacket

Here is my jacket for May, and I'm just barely getting it done before the month is over. This pattern has been used twice for the knit top - here and here - and it's one of my favorite TNTs for jacket shells. I've always loved the jacket as well, and finally got around to making it. The design is very simple and contains no princess seaming, which was perfect for this busy jacquard/tapestry print picked up at JoAnn's last fall. I loved the colors and the mixture of textures and prints, and thought it very unique. Please excuse the pantsless state of Her Highness. I have some really cute gray jeans that match perfectly, but you can't put pants on a dressform.

Cutting this jacket out nearly did me in. Lining the horizontal stripes up was one issue, as was making sure the bottom peplum got attached in an area of fabric wide enough to accommodate its curved shape. In other words, it had to work with the horizontal stripes on the sleeves and not contain any of the other lines of fabric at the side seams. This was difficult, especially since I nearly didn't have enough fabric to fit it all in. I should have taken a picture of my scrap pile after it was cut out - very minuscule.

I cut a 12 at the shoulders, bust and hips, but had to taper out to a 14 at the waist. This design is very snug, and I wanted to be able to layer it over pants. Also, the waistline was dropped 1.25", so that it would hit below the waistband of whatever bottom I pair it with.

The shaping of the front is handled by one diagonal dart at each side. I matched up the stripes of fabric so that the bottom torso was aligned. The mismatched stripes from the dart are completely invisible under the sleeves, unless I lift my arms for some reason.

I had two main problems with this pattern. The first is that the front lapels are cut separately from the jacket fronts. When all the layers are sewn, there's 4 pieces of fabric and interfacing coming together in one spot at the center front. At which point the lapel gets folded over and ironed down. It's super bulky! Even if sewn perfectly, it won't lie completely flat, and both sides of the fronts and facings are visible at the same time. This is one instance where my busy print actually aids in disguising this flaw. If I had used a solid color it would look very messy. My other issue is that the sleeve cap was too tall and had to be cut down 5/8". I'm not one to complain about sleeve caps, but these were ridiculous.

Here you can see how the front facing lines up with the jacket front, as well as the hooks and eyes sewn to the inside opening. Incidentally, this brown sequined top was one of my Macy's bargains I blogged about here. Isn't it the perfect match?!

I found this brown chocolate lining in my stash, and have at least 3 more yards of it for some reason. It's a little thicker then the usual linings I use and didn't slip around much. I was completely out of fashion fabric for the inside back peplum and had to use lining fabric instead.

Now I'm off to do some alterations. Oh joy.

26 comments:

  1. As always, an excellent job. That dart hidden under the sleeves is brilliant!

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  2. What a great job you did with that fabric! Very impressive, and a beautiful result.

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  3. This jacket is so lovely. The time you spent cutting was well worth it, since the beautiful fabric makes it unique. I can see this piece as a wardrobe staple for years to come. Super.

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  4. Your jacket is perfection!!! Your matching up of the pattern is fantastic. I love it!!

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  5. I love the fabric you used, and the jacket is perfectly made. You do such a beautiful job with your sewing.

    Barb

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  6. It is a very unique jacket. Beautifully done. Love it.

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  7. Beautiful work. Your stripe matching is lovely.

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  8. That was a challenging and beautiful fabric. Great job and fabulous jacket!

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  9. Gorgeous jacket!!! Lovely colors and print.

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  10. It reminds me of Coldwater Creek, only better!

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  11. Love your fabric..beautiful work.

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  12. Ditto all the above comments ... your garments are always so beautifully sewn and the fabric (and your attention to detail) make this fabulous!

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  13. That's a beautiful jacket. The fabric is awesome--those pleated areas in the material. Nice sewing, as always!

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  14. WOW! I take my had off to you, Amanda. You did an exceptional job with the stripes to make them so appealing to the eye, as well as match so perfectly. As a fellow sewist I understand just how hard this is and why it nearly did you in. :) I also love the jacket style and how much shape it has. Nice job!

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  15. Very pretty fabric! Your jacket is beautifully aligned and sewn. Once again another standout garment!

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  16. Amanda, can I just say how much I love reading your blog. Thanks for sharing so the details of your sewing projects with added photos. I really enjoy hearing about and seeing the details.

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  17. Wow you did an amazing job matching the pattern on this fabric. Its a great jacket!

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  18. What an awesome job you have done!

    I recently did a jacket with the lapels cut separately from the fronts too, and experienced the same problem at the CF. I think it is a case of allowing enough for the turn of cloth, and trimming in the right place! I have seen some RTW with lapel and lapel facing assembled first, then slotted in between the front and facing - I think this method looks a little cheap, but it does seem to sit OK. If you discover the answer - let me know!

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  19. We are not worthy. Lovely work.

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  20. Unique! Very beautiful fabric and the way you made everything line up is perfect.

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  21. You've made this beautifully. I love the fact that you are still sewing for your 'post baby body'. Keep well

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  22. I am impressed !Your precision and neatness is incredible.Great job!!!

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  23. What a fantastic jacket!!! I am so impressed not only by how lovely it is but by your amazing technical skill in putting this together. I have to confess that I have always shied away from anything, like stripes or plaid, that makes cutting out complicated or matching seams difficult. Seeing this amazing jacket makes me think that it's something that I really should think about attempting one day because your jacket does look so spectacular.

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  24. Your jackets are always so stunning. Another winner m'dear!

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