Sunday, July 15, 2012

Butterick 5353 - White peacock dress

Along with my love of all things yellow, I also adore anything printed with peacock feathers. Apparently a lot of other people feel the same way because every time I find one online and put it in a wish list awaiting a sale, it will immediately sell out. I found this one on Mood's online store and, even though it is considered home dec fabric, snapped it up. It is a cotton canvas embroidered with gold thread and the feathers are partially yellow. It's also one of Iman's new home decor fabrics.


Being a cotton canvas, this fabric has no drape, so I needed a design that was fitted. I made a muslin to perfect the fit and made the following alterations:

- Cut an 8 for the neckband, a 10 for the top, a 12 for the waist, and between a 10 and a 12 for the hips.
- Altered the side front to fit my small bust
- Added 1" to the bottom of all bodice pieces (this is standard for my long torso)
- Altered the waistband to not be so nipped in (also standard for my square shape)
- Reshaped the front armholes to be more cut in


Cutting this dress out was difficult and was done on a single layer of fabric. Those feathers are basically vertical stripes so everything had to line up. I had to make sure the feather "eyes" were evenly spaces over the dress and NOT at a bust apex. The front and back princess seams had to be cut so that the bottoms met at the correct spot on the stripe and flowed into the waistband. Did I mention I only bought one yard?! It was very stressful and I was extremely apprehensive of making a cutting error and not having any more fabric to correct it with. This is when some prayer is definitely helpful!



Now, you would think that since I made a muslin I would have zero fit issues, right? Too bad I didn't make a muslin of the skirt as well as the top. If you look down at the envelope picture you will see that this pattern includes two tucks on either side of the waist. The puffed out stomach area that resulted from those tucks turned out to not be a very flattering silhouette. Thus the skirt had to be completely removed, the side seams ripped out, a dart added to each side front and the front side seam curved in more toward the waist. I really don't know why I didn't mock up the skirt along with the top other then that I was still thinking about my previous dress which had a full skirt and didn't need the lower half to be fitted. It was dumb and I have learned my lesson.


Here you can see the gold embroidery better. I am really proud of finally figuring out how to fit patterns to my small bust.


More dressform pictures:


This pattern calls for a full lining which I made out of black Ambiance. I thought about doing the lining out of the same cotton sheeting used in my last dress but the white in the dress isn't a true white. Clashing whites is a slight pet peeve. Also I would have had to special order a zipper online to match the slight cream color and that was just too much trouble - especially since I had both the black Ambiance and the black zipper in my stash.


This was a great pattern and I really love the finished garment.


70 comments:

  1. So lovely! The whole dress fits like a dream, but the bodice is especially impressive. I love following your creations!

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  2. You used a beautiful fabric to get an amazing dress!

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  3. I adore this. The fabric is incredible and your fit is perfect. I immediately noted to mimic yours, but alas, Mood doesn't ship to Canada. Oh well, I guess it wouldnt have been very original of me anyhow.

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  4. Amanda! We love it! You did a fantastic job, and that's a tricky pattern, having tried it and given up on it. Can I post a link to this page on the Mood facebook page?

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  5. Shiny Green Penny, we do ship to Canada, it's just really expensive and most customers opt not to when they see the shipping price. We are going to work with a third party to ship internationally, very soon.

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  6. Meg,
    Yes! I would be so flattered!
    Amanda

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  7. Your are stunning in your beautiful new dress! The tailoring is impeccable and your post in inspirational. Thank you!

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  8. This is just fabulous! Love the fabric choice!

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  9. You completely knocked it out of the park with this dress! Congratulations on a fantastic result!

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  10. Incredible dress. Love the fabric.

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  11. Another extremely flattering dress. You are amazing!

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  12. Very pretty with a knock-out print! I have this pattern hanging on my bulletin board to make for my daughter. What did you do to the side front for your SBA?

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  13. Ack!!! This is GORGEOUS! I love that you took a risk with the heavier fabric-- it totally paid off! It fits you like a dream! Great job, lady!

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  14. Beautifully fitted and sewn. I think those round yokes are hard to get finished nicely, but yours is just perfect. Strut your peacock feathers!

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  15. What a gorgeous dress! Beautiful fit and awesome print!

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  16. I love your dress. I bought this pattern, fabric, lining, and thread ages ago. I don't even know where it all is now. I am really loving how yours came out.

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  17. What a lovely dress. You never cease to amaze me. Love it.

    Lorna

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  18. Que vestido tan bonito!!. Me encanta..
    Vas guapisima

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  19. Amanda. I need you to know that I SHOOK MY FIST AT THE MONITOR when I saw the preview. This is so beautifully tailored. And, I had NO idea Iman was doing home dec! Gah. Great dress.

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  20. I've got only 2 words for you and I need a southern accent for it---Gaw-Geous!!!! Love,love, love that fabric!

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  21. Beautiful fabric, beautiful dress!

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  22. That fabric is fantastic and you have fitted the dress beautifully, taking the time to change the skirt was definitely worth it.

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  23. Beautiful dress! And great fit! Congratulations!

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  24. Oh, Amanda, this dress is gorgeous!
    Both the style and the print suit you so well. I hope your DH realizes what a hot mama he has living at his house, lol. You need to make a little fascinator hat with peacock plumes to wear with this dress when you wear it to church.

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  25. Absolutely gorgeous!!! All of your hard work paid off. Cool fabric choice. Peacock=awesome.

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  26. The pattern is the perfect one for this fabric. Incredible job.

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  27. As always, amazing job!!
    (and hee for your "twinning" comment on my blog--it is dreaded!!

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  28. amazing that is home dec fabric, looks fantastic. that is one of my favorite dress shapes.

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  29. Such a very classic dress but with the surprise of the peacock eyes! Great choice of fabric. I love how neckline almost feels like a collar necklace.

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  30. I also love white peacocks, but don't have any fabric. This dress is seriously gorgeous!!

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  31. What a fantastic dress from a great pattern. I better the embroidery is really eye-catching in person.

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  32. WOW! This dress is completely fabulous - the fit is perfect, the print is gorgeous, and (as always) it looks beautifully constructed and finished. The stress of cutting out was worth it - the "stripes" match perfectly and the eyes are also perfectly distributed. I love it!

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  33. Your attention to details is just superb, impecable work Amanda and thanks for the pics, I really enjoy seeing the inside of the garments!

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  34. I love peacock fabric!! Just don't see enough of it. Great dress!

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  35. I've seen this peacock print home dec fabric at Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, IL in a darker colorway. As you say, it sells like a hot cakes on a Sunday morning. But I've seen it restocked more than once, maybe I'll buy more than a yard next time I see it restocked. I think it would make a stunning coat too.

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  36. That is a great print and with the dress - Love it! I have this dress in my huge stash of unsewn patterns and love your dress - it serves as inspiration.

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  37. this dress is beautiful! I started a dress with this pattern and the pieces didn't fit together right/it wasn't true to size at all and I got frustrated with it. You've inspired me to try to use the pattern again!

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  38. That came out amazing! All your hard work and planning definitely paid off.

    You are so brave to use a home dec fabric. I adore that print in the green feathers with purple centers. Good thing it's on backorder or I'd be sorely tempted.

    Happy creating!

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  39. stunned at your cutting skills... how did you eek that out of one yard. this is amazing!!!

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  40. Fabulous dress in every way! Love your unusual fabric selection and your treatment of it!

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  41. Gorgeous! I too love peacock fabric, but I never have seen any that my cheapskate self is able to purchase. Plus I'd probably be too scared to cut into it anyway....

    Your fitting on this is awesome, I'm so jealous of your skills!

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  42. It's a stunning dress, Amanda. WOW, what a perfect fit!

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  43. You did a great job with a difficult print but your effort was soooo worth it, what a great dress. You look fabulous! Thanks for the inspiration!

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  44. I love the graphic effect of the print matched with the dress pattern -- very well done with the pattern adjustments as well.

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  45. Beautiful! I am so impressed by your sewing skills. And I LOVE the fabric!

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  46. Gorgeous dress, the fabric is absolutely lovely and I am amazed you managed to get the pattern placement so good with only 1 yard!

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  47. My, oh my! This must be one of my favourite dresses you have made! Love the fabric and the fit is unbelievable!

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  48. absolutely love this dress! the fabric is perfect. and you made a great choice with the fit considering it has no drape. awesome!!

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  49. Beautiful dress and perfectly fittted!

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  50. Love that fabric and the style of the neckline. I'm going to have to check out this pattern now!

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  51. You picked the perfect pattern to highlight that beautiful fabric ...and you only had a yard of it? The dress is gorgeous.

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  52. Gorgeous - as usual! Love the fit, the pattern, the fabric - everything! You always inspire!

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  53. This is really lovely, Amanda!

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  54. Such a fantastic one yard wonder!

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  55. Great job. What fitting are you doing for a small bust?

    Margi

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  56. Gorgeous, and the fit is just perfect! Love this one!

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  57. Beautiful work! I just found your blog and am so impressed by all of your garments. I particularly love the peacock fabric and how you matched up the "stripes" so well. Congrats on a lovely dress!

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  58. This looks beautiful. It's always hard to figure out a good pattern for stiffer fabric. Nice match of pattern and fabric on this.

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  59. Beautiful! The embroidery is such a pretty touch, too. I think this particular dress is so flattering that you should seriously consider another version. :)

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  60. Such beautiful work as always. I am in awe of your skills. I saw a pretty dress with lovely fabric on this blog http://sewinginathens.wordpress.com/2012/07/03/cherry-dress/

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  61. WOW! What fantastic fabric! I love this dress! What a great job you did!

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  62. simply stunning and yet another perfect union of pattern and fabric/print.

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  63. Ooh! Such a gorgeous dress! I love it!

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