Butterick 5641 - Black & white paisley border print dress

My latest creation has the classic fitted bodice/gathered full skirt shape that never seems to go out of style. I used a cotton border print from Gorgeousfabrics.com that has textural dots which you can see in a closer picture. Black piping was sewn onto the neckline and sleeves to add interest and make the "collar" pop.

I was drawn to this pattern because of that "collar" and also because it features separate pattern pieces for the various cup sizes. Well, this pattern is great for the more well endowed, but it does not contain the necessary pattern pieces for an A/B cup. Even though it claims to. The size 10 has a bust circumference of 36". That is NOT A/B size! I had to take a small bust adjustment to the A/B cup pattern pieces in order to get it to fit. I cut a 10 everywhere except at the bust which was tapered down to an 8, and at the waist which was tapered out to a 12. 

My skirt was cut without side seams as I wanted to preserve the scalloped bottom of the black and white paisley. It is also 20" narrower so that the scalloped area met at the correct spot at the center back. As designed it was 80" wide. That is one full skirt! I also decided to attach the skirt at my actual waist and not the dropped waist that the pattern features. This was achieved but cutting 1" off the bottom of all the bodice pieces.

Here you can see the interesting texture of the fabric. I really love to add piping to areas. Little details like that make garments look expensive. The one thing about this pattern that I don't love is how wide the shoulders are. I have to wear a strapless with this dress and the only one I own has gotten too big. A minor quibble.

The pattern calls for lining the bodice only, but I chose to do a full lining since this is a thin cotton and I was worried about see through. Plus the extra layer helps the skirt to have more body. While perusing the cottons at Hancock's, I ran across this high thread-count sheeting that I'd never noticed before. It was super wide and felt incredibly soft, so I decided to get it for the lining. I wish they had other colors so I could use it for any project that needs a cotton lining.

This dress also had a huge amount of hand sewing of the lining: along the waist seam, the zipper seam, the bottom of the collar. I always turn on the TV for this part and just enjoy the monotony.

This dress barely zips up on my dressform as the dressform has gotten too big for me. However, I no longer have to add any ease to things fitted on it so that is kind of a good thing.

Here is the pattern picture. I was making the shorter skirt of view A with that fun bottom tuck, but needed the extra length once I shortened the bodice to waist length and had to omit it.

We spent last weekend and part of this week at lake LBJ, hence my red complexion. Fun was had by all and since the city we stay in is unincorporated, we can legally shoot off our own fireworks. My boys really love that part. I hope all of my American readers had a fun and safe 4th of July.