Wadders

I normally don't post my wadders anymore because I am just not that inspired by seeing other people's wadders. And really, getting inspired by other seamstresses is most of why I enjoy reading sewing blogs. However, I often get questions like the following, and thought I would share some of my mistakes:

Joyree commented on my recent knit twist top - "You are so good at getting the fit PERFECT! Does everything just fit you as it comes out of the envelope, or do you have to fix it? Very cute top."

Does everything fit me perfectly out of the envelope? No. Almost never. In fact, I have made so many wadders out of nice fabric that I now almost always make mock-ups out of crummy fabric to perfect the fit. Sometimes that doesn't work, though, and I never make a muslin out of a knit. Here are some wadders I have produced lately.

Butterick 5495

I love the look of this cute top and have seen some really lovely versions over at patternreview.com. In fact, I think this was one of those "best of 201?" patterns. Here is the one I made:

Please excuse the blurry photos - I couldn't use a flash for these mirror shots

I made this using a cheap polyester knit that wasn't as stretchy as most of my other knits. I bought it because I loved the color. As you can see, I tied a piece of fabric through the gathering holes to try it on for fit. It is super tight in the waist and the tie isn't even pulled as tight as the envelope example. I think a stretchier knit would work better for this pattern if you want it to be gathered as closely as the example. Also, there is way too much fabric gathered under my small bust resulting in a puddle of fabric right above the stomach. The maternity look isn't what I was going for. The next time I make this pattern I plan to remove an inch or two from the center front and add some to the side seams to make up for it. That will serve as a SBA and get rid of the excess gathering. I do really like this pattern and will be making it again, but it definitely needs some adjusting if you have a small bust.

Vogue 1250

This pattern has about a million reviews for it on PR. The rebel in me did not want to make it. I do not like to do what everyone else is doing. Also, I made this ugly top last year and since then have shied away from cowl necklines. But I decided to give it a chance for some reason:

The good news is I like the fit and think the neckline is definitely flattering. The bad news is my unfortunate fabric placement. See those two huge paisley motifs at both hips? They are making me look really wide. Not what I was going for either. Also, the back armholes stretched out dreadfully while I was trying to do the double folded hem finish. I need to find some sort of iron on stabilizer that will wash out when I'm done sewing it. I'll be making this one again in a different fabric. 

Vogue 1271

This is a designer dress new for spring that I loved and wanted to make for Easter. I made a muslin and had some problems with the side front pieces pooching out at the waist inset. I thought I had figured out how to correct the problem and also take a small bust adjustment (SBA), so I cut into my expensive silk dupioni without hesitation. Two weeks later with much time spent ignoring my family I had produced this:

It's way too tight. You can't tell by these pictures but the neckline is sitting really far down my shoulders making the tucked sleeves collapse. I made a 10 in the bodice and a 12 in the skirt but forgot to mark the darts for the 10 so they didn't match up. And FYI, silk dupioni is kind of like leather in that once it is stitched on the machine, the stitching holes are always there. I did not know that. There was no moving the darts over so they would be under the bust seams. I tried making my darts inverted which would have looked okay, but the whole dang thing is just too tight. *BIG GUSTY SIGH* Also, this is sort of an ugly color on me. I can wear taupe with more brown in it, but this color makes me look ill. I will not be making this dress again. It was wadded up and thrown in the trash with much ceremony. The pattern was fine, but after two weeks of frustration I'd had enough.

Trying to show you the collapsing sleeve and overall tightness of the dress

As you can see, I still experience my fair share of ill fitting garments. They suck, but they are a part of sewing your own clothing. 

I have completed a short sleeve summer jacket that you can see on my dressform in the back of the mirror pictures. We finally got some pictures taken of it yesterday but I don't really like the buttons I put on it. And I have a baby dress I made several weeks ago that I have yet to get pictures of. This blog has been sadly neglected this year and I am sorry for that. Anyone know where I can find some blogging mojo?