Modified Burda 9-2009-127 - Navy blue wool cropped jacket

Back when I made plans for this dress, I knew I wanted a matching cropped jacket to go with it. So an extra yard of wool was ordered with no real pattern in mind. Surely a cropped jacket pattern could be located, I told myself. The trouble was, I decided I wanted the EXACT look of the one paired with my dress pattern. Here's the inspiration picture from the December 2008 Burda issue:

Not only could I find no cropped jackets - I guess they're out of style? - I couldn't even find a full length jacket with a similar neckline. This is where sewing your own clothes and having a collection of Burda magazines comes in handy. I started with the pattern for this jacket:
Which is a perfectly fine pattern but I had initially passed it by for being somewhat plain. It is full length, double breasted, has raglan sleeves and a wide collar. Not at all what I had in my mind's eye but I thought it might work after some re-drafting. Ta da!

And here it is all buttoned up, although I doubt it'll be worn this way. These buttons are from Hancock's - $3.50 for one card of 2 plastic buttons!!! I don't get button pricing. However, I only needed two cards and always purchase at 50% off sales.

This is what I did to alter the pattern:
1. Converted the front from double breasted to single button closure. I simply measured over 7/8" from the center front for my new edge. Ditto for the facing. And incidentally, this design has the facing and jacket front as one piece, which I don't particularly care for. I cut them out individually.
2. Converted the sleeve pieces from 2 piece raglan to one piece with a regular sleeve cap. I have decided I don't like two-piece raglan sleeves on my body as they never sit right and the only raglan shoulder pads I can find are a little too thick.
3. Extended the shoulders by 1". This was another step in getting rid of the raglan sleeves.
4. Cut the collar width down by 1". I originally put it in at the full size but it looked too much like a sailor's collar to me. I also cut the collar down at the center back the same amount that I had cut off the double breasted front. I think it was 1 7/8" or there about.
5. Cropped the length of the jacket and the sleeve length. These sleeves hit right below the elbows and are super cute. You will think so too when I am able to get into this outfit.
6. Added shoulder pads. I ALWAYS add shoulder pads to jackets and keep them in stock in my notions bin. These are 1/2" covered set-in shoulder pads - I think I had a question about them awhile back that never got answered. Sorry! I like just a little shoulder definition in a jacket.

The fabric is a lovely wool crepe from Denverfabrics.com. The lining is navy ambiance purchased elsewhere online. Fabricmart.com? Fabric.com? One of those. I LOVE online fabric buying! Receiving a package in the mail is just like getting a gift to me.

Here's a picture of the full lining. I have made so many jackets now that I never have to consult directions anymore. My favorite part of sewing them is the step where you stitch the lining to the outer fabric, grade all the seams and turn it to the right side. One minute it looks like a hot mess and the next it's morphed into a beautiful garment.

This is a full view of the jacket with the dress. Does this look a bit retro to anyone besides me? Like a Jackie O. 60's suit maybe? I love it!

By the way, this is my jacket for September. I still owe myself a jacket for one of the M months and for August, and I will try my hardest to get them all in. But next up I am having a go at some baby clothes. I went to JoAnn's last night and bought 4 cuts of fabric for a few winter garments for Rachel. Infant winter patterns are hard to come by. I thought I had a good selection but most of it is summer stuff. I'm pretty excited about these little outfits!