Thursday, November 29, 2012

Burda style 5-2011-113 - Eggplant military jacket

Military jackets are very trendy right now. Last fall I made plans to make one, but didn't get around to it until now. I used a thick cotton twill in aubergine from Mood.com. It was easy to work with and has a great woven texture which you can see in some of the close ups.


This was the only design I liked from the May 2011 issue of Burda style. It is chalk full of interesting details: 20 buttons!, topstitching, sleeve cuffs, shoulder tabs, folding back front lapels, slanting back yokes and back belt. I opted not to trim it in bias strips per the instructions. I also added a full lining and shoulder pads.


After making a muslin, I added 1.5" to the overall length at the waist and .75" to the center back seam. The front dart was altered to slant up a bit. Both the inner and outer collar were fused with interfacing. Since my fabric was fairly thick, I left off all other interfacing suggested in the pattern instructions. I did iron small squares of it to the inside where the buttons were sewn on.


I moved the buttonhole placement on the cuffs over to 5/8" from the edges. The back belt button holes were also stitched 5/8" from the edges.


I initially had some trouble finding buttons for this jacket. I knew I wanted a military crest of some sort, but all of the ones I looked at locally did not have their crests attached the same way on each button, resulting in the crests facing all different directions. For the first time ever I ordered buttons online. These also came from Mood. The buttons on the shoulders, back belt and sleeves are the 20mm size. The ones on the front are 23mm.


I really love how the sleeves have built in forward curves to them.


Here you can see the twill texture a lot better. The fabric has such a nice depth to it that my topstitching sinks in ever so slightly.


I attached the outer collar to the jacket body and sewed the inner collar to the lining. Then I stitched the body to the lining along the edges, graded the seams, and turned it right side out. I stitched in the ditch by hand all along where the collar meets the body so that none of the seams allowances could turn up on the inside and become bulky.


I put a dab of fray check on the corners of the shoulder tabs after I turned them to prevent them from raveling out.


The lining is bemberg Ambiance. I happened to find a really good color match locally.


I had a lot of fun making this jacket. The details were challenging but not fiddly and I got to do loads of hand sewing.

63 comments:

  1. LOVE this jacket---from the color, to the style and down to the buttons! Beautiful work as usual Lady!!!!

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  2. Love Love Love this!! It looks fabulous on you, and the colour is amazing. Love it!

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  3. seriously fantastic jacket! i really like the pattern, and the fabric you chose is just perfect. love all the details, love everything about it!

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  4. Just beautiful! You sew so nicely, love the color on you as well.

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  5. This is crazy cute! Seriously, great job!

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  6. Oh, this is so gorgeous! I love military jackets and I love that color purple. Perfect combo, I say! All of your detail work looks impeccable as always. Well done!

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  7. You have such a talent. This is gorgeous!

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  8. This is a stunning jacket, you did an amazing job.

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  9. What a beautiful jacket! Love the color, the buttons, the shoulders! It looks great on you!

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  10. Beautiful! Brava!

    Do the jacket front edges actually come together? Or does it have a built-in space?

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  11. Great jacket with lots of cool details! It looks perfect, and the colour suits you very well.

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  12. Fabulous. Just fabulous.
    Wear that one often and with pride!

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  13. This is a fabulous jacket! What is your secret for your clothing always looking so professionally made? I have never seen you with anything that looks "homemade"

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  14. Your jacket is gorgeous! I really love the military style, and your choice of fabric matches the jacket perfectly. Perfectly sewn as always, hats down!

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  15. I must join the others - your jacket is just fabulous! You did a great job with the details.

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  16. It's perfect!! You have such talent! I would be wearing it everywhere!

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  17. Gorgeous!! I love the color and the construction is flawless ~ wow!

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  18. That is the most gorgeous coat I've seen in ages. And while I love to sew, I'm pretty sure that is way beyond what I'm capable of! But you look awesome in it and I'm totally jealous! =)

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  19. Spectacular! It looks amazing. The details are all there and so well executed! The aubergine colour really suits you too.

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  20. Amazing. Now I I have to go on a hunt for this jacket. You did a wonderful job. So professionally done.

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  21. Super cute, what a great winter look with the jeans and boots. love it.

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  22. Amanda, your jacket is super stylish and sewn with such perfection. Wish we lived closer to each other (I live outside of Houston) so I could learn your tricks to flawless sewing.

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  23. I love, love , love your jacket.. Thanks for sharing. Dawn

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  24. Beautiful jacket. I used that same fabric to make a Sewaholic Minoru jacket.

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  25. WOW!! it is perfect!! the color is beautiful! it looks very difficult to sew, it looks like if you bought it ! I wish someday I could sew like you!

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  26. This is definitely one of the best from that issue. Yours turned out great in one of my favorite colors.

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  27. You've done such a fantastic job with the details on this jacket! And the colour is lovely.

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  28. WOW! That is the most amazing, gorgeous jacket, and your work is perfect! I am beyond impressed! And eggplant is my favorite color...wow, wow, wow! I hope you are super proud of yourself!

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  29. It is always such a treat to see what you have made. this is gorgeous and the colour is perfect for you. Fabulous details and beautifully done!

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  30. Great jacket. Super colour too really unusual for a military style so kudos to you.

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  31. This jacket looks really, really gorgeous. The colour is divine. The tailoring is impeccable. Heads will turn everywhere you go!

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  32. It is SUPERB, Amanda! From the color to the details, it's just beautifully made. I love that military style never seems to go out of style. It's such a good classic that keeps repeating itself like a good classic should.
    Gorgeoux!

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  33. Love the colour you've used.
    This is such a wonderful style and you've mastered the details and edited the bits that worked well for you.
    Gorgeous.

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  34. This is a wonderful jacket. I love the colour on you! You've executed this beautifully

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  35. Very nice. Did you prewash or preshrink the fabric?

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  36. This jacket is a WINNER! You make me want to sew a jacket.

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  37. I absolutely love your jacket. The sewing looks well done, the fit is great, and the style is awesome.

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  38. Impeccable work! This is gorgeous!

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  39. Your attention to detail is just amazing, stunning jacket and as always impeccable work! Love this jacket, the deep saturated color you chose suits you really well too, you did a great job and thanks for the wonderful photos really appreciate seeing all the details!

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  40. This is beyond gorgeous! Your sewing is impeccable as always. :]

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  41. This is great! The colour looks fabulous on you, and (as always) it is beautifully made.

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  42. Fabulous as usual! I love the pairing of purple and military--an unusual combination that totally works. The details are just amazing.

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  43. Wow - I love everything about this jacket - stellar job!

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  44. Phenomenal work. Looks like it came out of a Paris design house. Beautiful work.

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  45. Your garments are so fabulous! Love the color and style!

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  46. This has got to be one of my all time favorite colors. Your new military inspired jacket looks phenomenal. What a fantastic addition to your wardrobe.

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  47. This is such a gorgeous jacket and in just the perfect colour for this season - beautiful work.

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  48. Wow, that is instant love! The colour is amazing and the shape is so flattering. Congratulation! I do want one too now...

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  49. Such a stunning jacket, Amanda! Best wishes for the new year.

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  50. Lovely outfit.
    Like your jacket.
    You can also try season style black vest top to upgrade your style.

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  51. Very nice tailoring! Love working with nice wool like that!

    Couldn't help but notice your blog name--are you a reader of mine? =)

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  52. Wow what a beautiful jacket! I love the colour, shape and execution! Just found your blog through a google search and think I will be here lots from now on!

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