Vogue 8480 - Tan twill jacket

Here's my jacket for January. In case you don't recall, I'm attempting to make at least one jacket each month. I lost my sewing mojo earlier in January, but it seems to finally have returned.

I've adored this pattern since it came out 2 years ago. I love the interesting front and back vents, side buttoning closure, bell sleeves, and loads of topstitching. It was cut out in December of 2008, but then I got stuck thinking about the inside finishes. I wanted something unlined and washable since it's such a light color and casual wear. But the front pieces have some difficult angles, and I couldn't figure out how to apply the bias tape with clean results. Then I thought to line it but couldn't grasp how to cut the front lining to accommodate the pleats below the pockets. So the whole thing got put aside, something I rarely do.

This pattern is very well drafted. The back collar has a curved integrated collar stand, my first time sewing something like that. The back topstitched sleeve seams match up perfectly with the back princess seams of the body.

I used heavy duty polyester thread for the topstitching. This heavier thread really pops out against fabric.

The only thing I changed about this pattern was the button placement. They have you install the bottom button below the pocket topstitching. This is too low on a jacket IMO, and creates a somewhat ballooned midsection with too much space in between the buttons and the extra fabric from the pockets; especially with this medium weight cotton twill that I chose. I left off the top button and button hole and the inside hidden button because they were unnecessary.

Here's the inside finished with three packages of bias tape. I'm a little sick of bias tape at the moment, believe it or not. But it did make a very nice finish and I can now throw this in the washer if it gets soiled.

And just in case anyone wants to make this with bias tape, I've included a picture of how I finished the front sections.

Next up I'm planning a billowy chiffon top to wear with this jacket and peek out from underneath. I know it seems like I've moved on to spring sewing but I honestly haven't. There's still loads of winter sewing begging to be made up.

For Rachel:

Looks like flowers with green stamens or leaves to me. Hope this helps.

February Burda Picks

No, I did not finish my Vogue 8480 jacket by the end of January, unfortunately. But I got it mostly done in January and will make another jacket for February, so I think I'm still on track with my goal. Since I have nothing new to show you, how about some Burda picks from this month's magazine?

I really like the collar from this first design, jacket 101. That and the cute bell sleeves. I have the perfect thinnish faux leopard fur in my stash for this. Theirs was made from matelasse (???) and I can't tell from the picture if that's a thin or thick fabric. However, fur jackets are frequently rather bulky looking, so I think I'll be safe with what I've got.

Jacket 109 is a cute denim-styled design. It's a petite/half size pattern so I'll have to figure out how to un-petite it. Which will probably involve making a muslin. Don't look for this in the very near future. (I do make muslins on occasion, they're just few and far between.)

This is top 118. This would make a really great date-night blouse.

The little knit tops from Burda are always made in abundance, and I expect no less from this next design, 122. Although it's a bit off the shoulders for me. That should be an easy fix, though.

That's pretty much it. Pants 102 caught my eye if every I'm in need of a super simple pants pattern. What patterns did you like from this month?