Sunday, January 8, 2017

Plaid + Black Color-Blocked Tracy Reese Knit Dress

This dress has now been updated!

The color blocking trend is alive and well. In fact, I have a whole Pinterest board dedicated to it. To me, color blocking is using two or more of the same type and weight of fabrics in the same garment. Not to be confused with mixed materials, which is two or more different types of materials used in the same garment. (Of which I also have a Pinterest board for.) This silhouette - cropped top over midi skirt - seams to be a current favorite, and is a look I wanted to try out.



The pattern is Vogue 1512, a designer patten by Tracy Reese. I can't find anyone else on the inter-webs that has made it up. I ADORED the envelope example. The cropped top over a fitted dress, the midi length, the oversized zippers on the shoulders - I loved it all. The fabrics I chose were both ponte knits. The plaid is from Mood Fabrics, purchased a year or so ago but currently sold out. The black is a long time stash resident. I was planning a black ponte suit at one point that never came to fruition. 


I cut the size 10 - my typical size in knits - but added some back to midriff side panels. The shoulder zippers I sourced from Etsy. The pattern calls for 3 to 5 inch zippers, and these are 3", but really they need to be 4 inches long. I had to trim about 1/2" off the neckline because of their shortness. I used knit interfacing around the neckline of the lining pieces and at the back zipper area. The hems were done with a twin needle: a 1" hem for the sleeves and a 2" hem for the bottom. 


I cut the plaid out in a single layer to match it up in the center front, center backs, side seams and across the sleeves. 


My zipper pulls keps popping up so I tacked them down with black thread. Aren't these such a fun detail? I was a little fearful that the neckline would be really bulky. There are 4 layers of fabric coming together there! But after some aggressive grading and curve clipping it is laying nice and flat.


The crop top overlay was thoughtfully drafted with mitered corners and lined. I picked a white knit lining that I had in my stash. For the bust darts I pressed the outer fabric's darts down and the lining's darts up. Pressing darts or seams in opposite directions on lined garments keeps those areas from being bulky.


Because I've sewn with this knit lining before I knew that it doesn't like to stay in its pressed position.  To combat that I topstitched it on either side of the seams throughout and they lay don't give me any problems. 


Under the cropped overlay is a nicely drafted bodice that has underbust gathering and is made from knit tricot. It is then lined with the same material and becomes a nicely fitted detail that is never seen. It fits so well that I'm almost tempted to make the dress again without the overlay. The running stitch you see is where I secured the lining to the outside area. I like linings to be secured at some point around the midriff area unless I'm making a simple shift dress.


Here's the full lining. I ran out of this fabric before I could cut the skirt pieces and had to order more. The sleeves are unlined. I overlocked the sleeve seams and armhole seams with my regular machine. Ponte knits don't ravel but it looks neater.


Dressform pictures:





I quite like my new dress but I'm not sure it's the most flattering thing I've made lately. I need under-bust definition to balance out my upper area and this dress does not provide that. Also maybe the strip of plaid right across the girls was not the way to go when laying it out. Maybe if I styled it with high black boots and toughened it up a bit I would be happier. Hmmm...

32 comments:

  1. I don't think it's *not* flattering. It looks extremely fashionable. Not trendy, but like real fashion.

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    1. Thanks Renee! A new silhouette always takes time to get use to. Also I think I won't be using a similar NewLook pattern I have. The skirt on that one is fuller and will really make me look disproportioned.

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  2. I just found your blog! I must say I am getting inspired by your posts. You are very talented. This dress looks high end boutique.

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  3. Yes, when I saw the first photo I wasn't a fan - a bit "mumsy". But on closer inspection it is really interesting and very nicely done. I think you just need to see it side on and from the back to really appreciate it. Movement and not a front on photo shows it up best. Perhaps the boots to toughen up the outfit a bit as you suggest.

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    1. Well, we aren't paper dolls after all. It's definitely something that looks better in person. Also the fishnets and dressy pumps were not the way to go, I know that now. But I'd already asked my husband to snap this dress twice, once on Saturday when the lighting wasn't ideal and then again on Sunday. It was time to get it posted already and move on. Thanks for you comment Vicki!

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  4. I've bought this pattern too so I'm really pleased to see it made up. It's a lot of work, and a fabric hog so I can see why it's not massively popular, but I love it too. The detailing is just gorgeous and it looks great on you. I agree that it's better when viewed from the side/back and I like the black/plaid combination. I'd be quite tempted to do it in a slim skirt, so that the top overlay "pops" more. I think maybe slightly shortening the overlay would work too, but doesn't detract from the beautiful job you've done. It's gorgeous, bravo!

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    1. Thanks Bibliophile! I'm always attracted to the interesting and different styles that aren't too out there, if you KWIM. I guess not everyone is willing to go to the effort to make something like that come alive.

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  5. Great details and beautifully made. Love your fabric choice.

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    1. Thanks Sigrid! I like it too although, I actually just thought of another ponte in my stash that I could have substituted for the plaid that probably would have worked better. Live and learn.

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  6. Im also new to discovering your blog! This dress is stunning. Great job in getting those shoulder zips to lay so flat.

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  7. Beautiful, Amanda. I love your sewing and attention to detail. Thks for sharing.

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  8. Hi Amanda, nice dress! Just a FYI, you may want to check your image settings on your blog. Now that I can't see your whole post in my blog reader app and have to actually go to your site, I noticed that your photos are terrible quality (at least on my phone). I have to click on each one to see a higher resolution version and that's kind of annoying. Not sure if you were aware of this or not. It seems to be a Blogger thing as yours isn't the first blog I've noticed it happening. I don't know if you can fix the image quality, or just make it so we can read the whole post on blog reader apps again. Either way, thanks for looking into this and keep up the good work with your creations!

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    1. Okay, so after a bit or research I think I've fixed the problem. It isn't happening on my phone so I can't really check to see if its working. Also it may not take effect until my next post. Please reply whenever I post content again and let me know if you can see the photos clearly or not. Sorry for the inconvenience!

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    2. Thanks so much for your quick response! I'll keep an eye out next time :)

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  9. I am always so in awe of your makes Amanda! Beautiful sewing, great fit and such variety in your garments :)

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    1. Thanks Kathleen! I'm easily bored and don't like to repeat lol.

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  10. I would definitely make another version of the underlayer, it is a really pretty design! The dress might be more figure flattering if you shorten the overlay by about 2 inches. Beautiful work as always!

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    1. You are the second person to suggest that and I am seriously considering it! I've got it pinned up at the moment but am going to think about it for awhile before getting out my seam ripper. Thanks Omishev!

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  11. I am obsessed with those zippers!! Such a fun detail!! Like Vicki, I was "meh" on the front view. If I didn't know that I generally love everything you make, I probably wouldn't have even looked farther! I'm glad I did, though, because it really is cute and stylish! Maybe a slimmer skirt will make the front view better!

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    1. I've decided to shorten the overlay and already have the bottom hem ripped out. Hopefully that will fix the "mumsy" issues. I don't think I can narrow the skirt without messing up the shape because it doesn't have side seams. This just goes to show it's all about proportions on each individual body type. Thanks Lisa!!

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  12. This beautifully made dress is a bit out of your wheelhouse. I like and appreciate your ability to try something different as I struggle to do that. I do, however, agree with other posters that shortening the crop top will be more flattering even though it would be a pain with the mitered, lined corners. Thanks for blogging. I always get excited when I see a new post from you! Karen

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    1. Lol, I am shortening it. It's actually not that hard, but I won't be able to finish the bottom with a machine stitch like I did originally. I don't mind the hand sewing though. Thanks Karen!

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  13. As ever I love all the little details and the immaculate finish inside. I think this type of silhouette can be very flattering and overall I like this dress. It will be interesting to see the effect going short with the crop will have.

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    1. Thanks Manju! I think it might flatter the busty more than team tiny lol.

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  14. This dress is really interesting. I hope you will post a picture with the top shortened and your boots. I thought boots would be really cute with those zippers as soon as I saw them. I love that you approach suggestions with an open mind and sense of your own style.

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    1. I'm planning to take a few photos this weekend and post a quick update. Thanks Anna!

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  15. Dear Amanda
    here I am back again. Christmas time is family time, no time for sewing projects, no time for comments.
    But...
    Your brown jacket is simply fantastic. That's what I call high-end and the color fits you perfectly. I would call it "dark Swiss chocolate brown with crunchy rasberry". Your skirt ... pure envy! I ran immediately into my sewing room to look after a wool cloth with plaids in my stash. I want to have such a skirt, too! The pattern is very fanciful, makes this skirt extra-ordinary. Thank you for your constant good examples. They are a wonderful motivation to keep on sewing and creating beautiful things.
    Regarding your knit dress I must admit that I was a bit confused at the first glance. I've read the other comments and I agree that the "problem" could be the length of the top.
    Dear Amanda, please contact me. I would be very pleased to send you the promised Swiss lace.
    Warm greetings from a (freezing cold) Switzerland :)
    Enri
    taboas.enri@bluewin.ch

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