I made a muslin of the bodice only as I planned to make the full skirt from the pattern and never muslin full skirts. I only had to make a few tweaks to the pattern to get a good fit. (This design is definitely for the small busted!) The pieces were carefully cut out from a single layer of fabric and I tried to balance the colors all the way around. I used a black wool crepe for the flat piping and skirt.
When another yard of the black wool showed up on my doorstep this month, I quickly cut out the full skirt and stitched it up. Remember when I wrote I never muslin full skirts? Not such a good idea this time around. It's unique but peculiar shape (see pattern picture below) looked lumpy and bumpy. SO, I ripped off that skirt, threw it in the trash, and cut a straight skirt from my TNT (that's tried-and-true) straight skirt pattern, McCall's 3830. For a little interest at the hemline I included small slits. This wool crepe is a little stretchy, so I added 1/2 inch to the center front and back of my skirt lining to maintain the slightly looser fit.
I just love all the piping on this design! It was time consuming to get it all the same width but definitely worth it. The neckline is also a beautiful feature that I really like. The line drawing on the pattern didn't really register with me, so when it turned out to be a little plunging in the back I was pleasantly surprised.
Dressform pictures:
This pattern directed a lining for the top portion, and I added the lining for the skirt. It is black Ambiance from my stash.
The neckline was finished with bias tape, as were the armhole seams.
I've taught myself mitered corners. You can see them at the bottom of the black wool. They are those diagonal seams coming off the slit corners. I have some RTW (ready-to-wear) skirts that utilize this technique and have always thought it very smart looking. The lining was slip-stitched down around the slits so it wouldn't show while I'm wearing it.
These are the patterns I used:
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McCall's 3830 |
It's beautiful, inside and out and looks great on you!
ReplyDeleteThanks Cole!
DeleteWow, what a gorgeous dress! I LOVE the unique design and never would have thought to try that pattern. Beautiful!
ReplyDeleteLovely dress, looks great on you. Fabulous fabric too!
ReplyDeleteThanks Janessewandtell!
DeleteYour dress is gorgeous!!! You always do such a fantastic job. I'd been eyeing that pattern too but didn't like the bottom skirt part. I like your idea and your added skirt better. That metallic fabric is AMAZING!
ReplyDeleteThanks SunnySewing!
DeleteYour construction techniques are off the chain. And what a beauty! So worth the effort. I am totally pinning that mitered corner detail!
ReplyDeleteThanks Heather Lou!
DeleteThere was something about this pattern i really like...but something i didn't like...so i didn't get it.
ReplyDeleteNow i see.... you created a perfect version...it's the bottom of the pattern i did not like so much. Love your dress!
Thanks Frenaew! I actually did like the original skirt design, it just wouldn't lay smoothly.
DeleteYour dress is gorgeous. Using the brocade only in the bodice does make it more wearable than if you'd done the whole dress in it. Enjoy!
ReplyDeleteThanks Nancy K!
DeleteGorgeous dress! As always, you did a beautiful job with it!
ReplyDeleteThanks Jenny!
DeleteYour hard work and persistence paid off. It's a stunning dress! And it fits you like a glove. Your careful work on all the details really stand out on a tricky design like this.
ReplyDeleteThanks Karin!
DeleteStunning - Just scanning through the pictures, I was blown away by the first one...then the back view...oh.my.goodness! Absolutely gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Jaime. I always like a little back interest.
DeleteWithout the pattern's original skirt, the bodice is very striking! I hated the skirt, so never really looked twice at this pattern. I may have to reconsider, yours looks so fantastic!
ReplyDeleteThanks Countrygirlcouture!
DeleteOh, how striking! This dress looks much better in a dark fabric than I'd guess from the pattern illustrations. Thanks for the tip about bust size and this pattern: I bought it to make up for my darling daughter (for whom the abbreviation DD has a double meaning). I'll definitely muslin this bodice on her before I chop into the fashion fabric!
ReplyDeleteOh how funny! Yes, definitely make a muslin! There is a review on patternreview.com for a busty gal who successively figured out the FBA for it. Thanks for your comment, LinB.
DeleteThat dress is utterly breathtaking! I love your vision---pure perfection. That bodice fabric is uber gorgeous!!! I admire you craftsmanship and tailoring skills!!!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Victoria!
Deletelovely, very luxe looking and great fit.
ReplyDeleteThanks Beth!
DeleteBeautiful use of the brocade. I've eyed that brocade a few times myself. Lovely dress!
ReplyDeleteVery pretty, the perfect combination of the brocade and black wool.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Lori!
DeleteLovely dress :) Hope you get to wear it a lot!
ReplyDeleteThanks Mrs L!
DeleteWow! another beautiful dress! Love, love, love the fabric and the craftsmanship!
ReplyDeleteThank you Florencia!
DeleteGorgeous - the combination of patterns in truly inspired!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Donna! I don't know how inspired I was - more like desperate for a save!
DeleteWhat a perfect choice of fabrics for that pattern. It looks great!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sandysewin!
DeleteIt looks fantastic! Love the piping and interesting pleat lines
ReplyDeleteThanks Almondrock!
DeleteAbsolutely a fantastic job and the dress is perfect!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Rosie!
DeleteStunning work. Thanks for bringing this pattern to my attention x
ReplyDeleteThanks House of Pinheiro!
DeleteVery nice!
ReplyDeleteThanks DawnSSL!
DeleteThis looks great, super idea.
ReplyDeleteI do have one question: does your waist fall at the bottom of the waistband?
Thanks Laura! The waistband bottom is right at my waistline. Most times I would lengthen the pattern to fit my long waist but it looked fine to me this way.
DeleteFabulous, as always! You always do such an impeccable job with your sewing. You inspire me to approach my own sewing with more excellence!
ReplyDeleteThanks Vanessa!
DeleteWhat a stunning dress. I like your skirt better than the one on the pattern. It draws more attention to the beautiful bodice. Great job!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Lisa! I did like the original skirt a lot, but I think this one works better with the overall design.
DeleteWow, this is gorgeous. I like your version with the straight skirt better than the original skirt with the pattern. The straight skirt and the dark color really makes the bodice take center stage. Beautiful piping work too! Well done!
ReplyDeleteThanks Meigan!
DeleteWOW! Simply, WOW! This is stunning. I could see paying obscene money in an expensive boutique for a dress like this. And, I'm totally going to grab that pattern now. I've seen it before and had little interest in it until I saw your rendition.
ReplyDeleteThanks Mkonieczki! The envelope picture did nothing for me, but I thought the blackline drawing unique.
DeleteWow, so chic and sophisticated. And it looks so dressed up and nice compared to the "too young" rowley pattern cover. Nicely done!
ReplyDeleteThanks Meg!
DeleteWhat a stunning use of an amazing fabric! Gee, I wish Mood had easy shipping to Canada!
ReplyDeleteThanks Shiny Green Penny! You should write them an email about it. If enough people petitioned, perhaps they would figure out shipping to other countries.
DeleteWow, you will cherish this for years to come! It is beautiful.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Vicki!
DeleteHi Amanda,
ReplyDeletewhat a great sewer you are! Always impeccable fit and execution, well done. Keep up the good work.
Kind regards from "Down under"
Therese
Thanks Therese!
DeleteAnother beautiful dress! I love the design lines on the bodice and the back neckline makes for a much more interesting back view. Great choice of fabric.
ReplyDeleteThanks Katherine H!
Deletegorgeous! i totally would have passed over that pattern, but putting it on my list now! as a fellow small-busted lady, it is very flattering on you!
ReplyDeleteThanks Lisa G!
DeleteSo gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteThank you Susan! I've been missing your blog posts lately. Hope all is well.
DeleteThe way you laid it out really sets off that unusual fabric!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Marysews!
DeleteThat looks so good! I am always amazed at the stuff you make, it looks so professional! Now have your husband take you out to dinner to show off that dress! ;)
ReplyDeleteThanks Molly!
DeleteThis looks great:)
ReplyDeletePerfect choice of fabric too
Thanks Rebecca!
DeleteI love the combination of both patterns together.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Tamara!
Deleteimpeccable as always!
ReplyDeletenow you have me (and my small bust) wanting that CR pattern. i didn't like the bottom of that dress but your idea to put it on a straight skirt is brilliant!
Thanks Kyle! We small busted girls should form a club...
DeleteWow that dress looks fantastic!!!!! GReat photos too hun :)
ReplyDeleteOh thanks, Neeno!
Deletegorgeous, as usual!
ReplyDeleteThanks Blacklabelblog!
DeleteWow!! What a beautiful dress. You look amazing. I would never have considered this pattern as I really don't like the skirt on it - but now...
ReplyDeleteThank you Shelly!
DeleteBeautiful! I love how you combined two patterns to create something unique that fits your style and your body shape.
ReplyDeleteThank you T. Sedai!
DeleteThis is just lovely- I've avoided the pattrn becasue the skirt seemed alittle novelty if I didn't get just the right fabric. Your pattern blend is perfect- really sets off that gorgeous bodice.
ReplyDeleteThanks Prttynpnk!
DeleteWow - love this dress! So flattering for you. I love that picture of your tiny waist - especially after having 3 kids! Good for you!
ReplyDeleteThanks SheriNJ!
DeleteVow, excellent fabric and design combo! Love that you chose to sew just a bodice from brocade - looks just the right amount of fancy :)
ReplyDeleteThanks Victoria!
DeleteThat dress is absolutely gorgeous. Your level of precision of your sewing is so inspiring... It looks like a freaking couture piece!!
ReplyDeleteWow, thanks Adrienne! That is what I always aim for!
DeleteThat dress is fabulous on you and so beautifully made.
ReplyDeleteThanks Gillymakes!
DeleteThis is really nicely done. So lovely.
ReplyDeleteThanks Adelaide!
DeleteHi!
ReplyDeleteI am Brazilian and I do not know English, so I use the google translator. So if something goes wrong writing, I apologize.
Girl ... I get silly on how well you sew. Its seams are always so perfect ... without talking to your whim ... fantastic!
I'm still a beginner, but maybe one day I get to your level?
Congratulations! Are you a seamstress for real!
Kisses from Brazil,
Jizreelita
Thanks Jizeelita! It's so fun to hear from people all over the world!
DeleteI have been following you for about 6 months and I'm always impressed with your ability to make just the right thing in the right fabric. Every piece you make is impeccable and exceptionally well made. LOVE this dress as well as every other item you make. Spectacular
ReplyDeleteThanks Marlene! I've had a lot of practice choosing the wrong thing, to be honest. After you do that enough times you are better able to picture how most fabrics will behave.
DeleteMy favorite of everything you've done! Just beautiful and beautifully crafted and sewn.
ReplyDeleteThank you Coco!
DeleteStunning dress!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sharon!
DeleteGreat use of the gorgeous brocade so that you can get a lot of wear out of it. I love the piping detail.
ReplyDeleteThanks Allison!
DeleteI think the straight skirt is more aesthetically pleasing, whereas the mixture of straight lines and curves of the original pattern confuses my eye a little. A dress to be very proud of!
ReplyDeleteYou are right! It confused my eye too but I still wanted.that.skirt! Thanks Craftytraveller!
DeleteThis dress is such a work of art! I too love that plunging back neckline. The colors look fantastic on you!
ReplyDeleteThanks Mushy! The colors look fallish to me but oh well, I'm wearing it now anyway!
DeleteThe amount of effort was definately work this. This is a great piece.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Jill!
DeleteI love how the piping pulls everything together. Stunning.
ReplyDeleteThanks Kathy!
DeleteYour dress is gorgeous and well done!
ReplyDeleteThanks Okcaha - hope I got your name right!
Deletemy name is Oxana in english -))
DeleteGorgeous as always! As some others have said, I actually prefer the straight skirt, I think the original is a bit busy and confusing. This one makes the lovely seaming on the bodice really stand out. It's funny, as I was reading this, I was thinking how lovely it is to see beautifully constructed clothes that someone has really taken time and care over, and then I read the last paragraph!
ReplyDeleteThank you Dilly!
DeleteIt's stunning! I'm so impressed!
ReplyDeleteThis is beautiful! I love the way the seaming on the bodice really sets off the geometric brocade.
ReplyDeleteThanks Needleandcloth!
DeleteIt's stunning and looks amazing on you! I bypassed this pattern (often). Yours should be the pattern picture...it comes across sooooo much better. Fantastic job!!!
ReplyDeleteThank you Mocka Scrapper!
DeleteYou know, I've always dismissed that Cynthia Rowley pattern as needlessly fussy to not enough avail, but this dress is beyond! Your choice of fabric is perfect, and the piping takes it to a whole new level.
ReplyDeleteThanks Trena!
DeleteThis dress is gorgeous! I keep looking at this pattern and will definitely pick it up now. I love that you made the skirt using a black fabric , and of course the brocade is beautiful! I agree with everyone about the staight skirt, it compliments the bodice and highlights the amazing construction that went in to it. Totally inspired by your skill!!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much Stacey B!
Deletejust STUNNING!!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Adrienne!
DeleteAmanda, that is such an interesting and beautiful brocade and use of it. I loved that Cynthia Rowley pattern from the first time I saw it, and believe it or not, I thought to myself..."this is an Amanda dress!"
ReplyDeleteIt's lovely.
Haha! I guess I am pretty predictable. Product a garment with a fitted bodice and a few interesting design elements and I am sure to make it! Thanks Lynne!
DeleteThat fabric is really amazing, and it's really amplified by the black skirt and piping! You look wonderful :)
ReplyDeleteThanks Poppykettle!
DeleteStunning dress. Your work is impeccable! I always am excited to see your garments!
ReplyDeleteThank you SEWN! It is so great to have an online community of people that get excited about sewing!
DeleteLove the pattern and the fabric you used for the dress! The dress looks like a perfect fit and style for those of us fortunate enough to be smaller on the top half. I also enjoyed how you commented about using the copper fabric for the entirety of the dress would not suit your lifestyle. That is so important! I've found that the things I love used in moderation are fabulous, but when I go overboard in using them....disaster. Great job on the dress.
ReplyDeleteGeri Lawhon
Thanks Geri!
DeleteI'm so glad you made the straight skirt version. The bodice drew me to this pattern but I can't wear full skirts without looking dumpy.
ReplyDeleteWonderful dress and workmanship Amanda.
Thanks Velosewer!
Deletewow beautiful dress.
ReplyDeleteThank you Agnieszka!
DeleteThere's not much I can add to these well-deserved comments, but I just had to chime in and tell you how amazing this dress looks. That metallic is so eye-catching, and you made it all look so lovely. The inside is incredible too. Great work, Amanda!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Shelley!
DeleteLove love love this!!! You have inspired me... Wish my sewing was as neat as yours :-)
ReplyDeleteThanks VixVix!
Delete