Burda 9-2012-106 - Black wool doubleknit semifitted top

Wow! It has been a long while since I posted anything. August was probably the most horrible month of sewing that I can remember. I had four wadders in a row. Four! I ruined some really beautiful fabric. I learned never to underline two-way stretch fabric with one-way stretch. I learned (again) that sewing with synthetic fabric often yields crappy results. Also, silk jersey shrinks in the dryer.

This top was totally not on my radar for early September but I really needed something that didn't require yet another muslin.

The pattern is from this month's Burda magazine which I ordered here. I used a perfectly lovely wool doubleknit bought online from Denverfabrics.com a year or so ago. It is a nice medium weight and is not at all scratchy. It is also very warm and I was sweltering while snapping these photos. A small bit was used earlier in the year for this dress and I still have a yard left over.

I like this simple design a lot. The shaped front darts allow the top to be roomy but still fitted through the bust. The bell sleeves have just the right amount of flare. The top and bottom bands give it some interest and the back neckline is a subtle surprise.

Notice the front neckline is slightly raised and the back has a tiny plunge. It's not too low, though, to keep it warm for winter. I'm sure there's some name for this type of design. The back has a CB seam to give it a bit of shape.

Here you can better see the neckline and the darts along the sleeve head.

I cut a size 36. Normally I'm a 38 but because they used this exact design for both stretch and non-stretch fabrics, I figured it would be too big in the doubleknit. The only modifications I did were to raise the bust dart apexes by 1.25", cut 1.25" off the bottom before attaching the bottom band, move the band seam to a side instead of the CB as per the instructions, and bring the CB seam in 5/8" at the small of my back.

I have been hunting for a simple semi-fitted knit dress pattern and think this one will work perfectly for that. Expect to see it again soon. And because I know I'll get a question about it - No, I did not make these blue pants. They are from New York & Company, a mall store that always carries pants that fit me really well. I avoid making pants as much as possible.

This is the magazine picture. Mine looks exactly the same since I used black.