Sunday, September 2, 2012

Burda 9-2012-106 - Black wool doubleknit semifitted top

Wow! It has been a long while since I posted anything. August was probably the most horrible month of sewing that I can remember. I had four wadders in a row. Four! I ruined some really beautiful fabric. I learned never to underline two-way stretch fabric with one-way stretch. I learned (again) that sewing with synthetic fabric often yields crappy results. Also, silk jersey shrinks in the dryer.

This top was totally not on my radar for early September but I really needed something that didn't require yet another muslin.


The pattern is from this month's Burda magazine which I ordered here. I used a perfectly lovely wool doubleknit bought online from Denverfabrics.com a year or so ago. It is a nice medium weight and is not at all scratchy. It is also very warm and I was sweltering while snapping these photos. A small bit was used earlier in the year for this dress and I still have a yard left over.


I like this simple design a lot. The shaped front darts allow the top to be roomy but still fitted through the bust. The bell sleeves have just the right amount of flare. The top and bottom bands give it some interest and the back neckline is a subtle surprise.


Notice the front neckline is slightly raised and the back has a tiny plunge. It's not too low, though, to keep it warm for winter. I'm sure there's some name for this type of design. The back has a CB seam to give it a bit of shape.


Here you can better see the neckline and the darts along the sleeve head.


I cut a size 36. Normally I'm a 38 but because they used this exact design for both stretch and non-stretch fabrics, I figured it would be too big in the doubleknit. The only modifications I did were to raise the bust dart apexes by 1.25", cut 1.25" off the bottom before attaching the bottom band, move the band seam to a side instead of the CB as per the instructions, and bring the CB seam in 5/8" at the small of my back.


I have been hunting for a simple semi-fitted knit dress pattern and think this one will work perfectly for that. Expect to see it again soon. And because I know I'll get a question about it - No, I did not make these blue pants. They are from New York & Company, a mall store that always carries pants that fit me really well. I avoid making pants as much as possible.

This is the magazine picture. Mine looks exactly the same since I used black.

57 comments:

  1. Love this, especially the curved underbust dart.

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  2. Gorgeous. It's a great design and your version is delightful.
    -sewingelle

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  3. Awesome! This was one of the patterns I sort of disregarded from this issue, but now I am going to have to reconsider it. And find fabric. Very inspired because your top looks fantastic!

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  4. Absolutely gorgeous. I love the design lines and the fabric. You did a great job as always.

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  5. Looks great and I really dig the cobalt pants!

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  6. Great job on that top. I also have it on my list. Sometimes I also get sick of muslins.

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  7. Lovely top! It's a great color that can go with just about anything and has some nice design lines. Looks great with your blue pants! Sorry to hear about the wadders... those are always discouraging!

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  8. Awesome! This is my favorite pattern from the magazine which I am just browsing through tonight. What a treat to see it already made up. Great job.

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  9. Love your posts Amanda, always nice close up pictures and you answer all my questions! The top is gorgeous on you!

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  10. Wow, that's lovely. Now I want to make this pattern too!

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  11. Lovely! It's great to see the top looks as good, if not better, in real life as in the magazine. Makes me want to rush out and make one

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  12. Just perfect! It has an off-duty, Audrey Hepburn, look about it to me. It's lovely and it suits you down to the ground.

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  13. I love it! I am going to have to get this pattern for sure! The curved dart is fabulous. I would have made it in black too ;) Glad you are going to make another version and cannot wait to see it.

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  14. That a bummer about all the wadders, but this top makes up for it (hopefully)!!

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  15. Oh, bad luck with the wadders. But this top is really cute.

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  16. Yours doesn't look exactly like the picture...yours look MUCH BETTER!!! :)
    Can't wait to see the dress.

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  17. I love this top everytime I see a pic of the pattern. I considered buying the magazine just for this, but probably won't. :-) Yours is really nice. I'm sure you'll wear it a lot in the fall and winter.

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  18. The top looks great with those amazing pants! I think they really make the top stand out. Great job!

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  19. Gorgeous top, I love the darts and the little v back. This is on my list too so it's great to see it made up so quickly.

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  20. Once again, I am amazed. Your top is really beautiful. Thanks for the post!

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  21. It is so Audrey and so You. Well done!!

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  22. I love that and your sewing is always impeccable. Please tell me about your pants. Did you make them? They are beautiful.

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  23. Whoops. I just noticed you said you did not make those pants. I love Ny&co too. Their pants always fit me well.

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  24. wow that is a fabulous top! Looks so simple and has so many design features. I am on the look out for this issue now.

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  25. Really, you live in Texas ? (Just kidding) Because you look like you're in NY, SF, or Paris! Fantastic result - and I love the double knit!

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  26. oh I'm SO glad you made this already, and you're so speedy! This was the one I picked out to sew from this issue, but I'm running behind. Now seeing yours, I'm even more excited to get to it!

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  27. So very sorry to hear about those wadders! Been there and done that. This top is the perfect comeback from wadderville.

    It is really special - not just a loose top, but very nicely shaped and looks expensive. I think I better go over to my local fabric store and get that issue of Burda while it is still available.

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  28. Sometimes I wonder you would be better off just buying from anthropologie or other websites instead of wasting so much time energy and money in sewing since you are so picky too .Just my opinion

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  29. That's a very nice top. I like the slightly belled sleeve. It will be perfect when the air is cool.

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  30. I don't think I have ever commented on your blog, maybe once, I really don't remember, however this blouse is so cute. It has the vintage yet current look to it. Great fit and choice of fabric.

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  31. I love this. It looks really chic! Good to see you back - I've missed your posts!!

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  32. Love it in its simplicity and elegance. It also makes a great outfit with the bright pants!

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  33. Love it. Simple and clean. I'll keep my eye out for this one - hopefully it's on-line since I don't subscribe.
    Sorry about the bad month. Hopefully sewing is better for the month of September.

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  34. The streamlined styles that Burda is featuring are starting to appeal to me. But these styles, if blocky, are unflattering on me. It was encouraging to read your description of the shaping, and the top looks great on you. You are ready for cooler weather!

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  35. Looks lovely! So chic and yet looks comfortable at the same time!

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  36. I like this so much I'm ordering a black wool double knit to copy. I never can find nice wool sweaters and this may be a great way to get me through winter. Thanks for the inspiration!

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  37. I love the design lines in this top and it looks wonderful on you! Sorry about the wadders...those are so frustrating!

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  38. Oh I like it! This top has that on-trend boxier look, but has great lines and is fitted perfectly...sort of fitted boxy! I love it, and it looks really great on you, Amanda. It really would make a cool dress.

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  39. It looks absolutely lovely! The higher neckline at the front with the dip at the back is very flattering and feminine. I am sorely tempted to rush straight out and buy this magazine now :)

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  40. That shirt looks great ! And I love the pants too (and just assumed you made them til you wrote otherwise--great color!)

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  41. p.s. sorry to hear about your 4th wadder--that's so painful!!

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  42. Love it! But I do have a technical question. Did you use the vilene bias/stay tape called for in so many burda patterns? If not, what did you use in its place?

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  43. Any one else use burda patterns and care to advise????

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  44. A very classy looking top.I love all the little touches that make this design anything but ordinary.

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  45. I'm so sorry you've had such a bad month of wadders, but what a comeback!
    This top is fabulous. You look very chic in this ensemble. And your photos are so much better than the Burda magazine ones. I love how you can see all the amazing details.

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  46. this turned out beautifully! What pattern number was it? i'm trying to decide if I want to go ahead and order this month's burda or not.

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  47. What a nice piece! I find that semi-fitted styles are hard to wear, but you are wearing the h*** out of this one. That back neckline is particularly nice.

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  48. Just got to your blog from Selfish Seamstress link. Great blog! Thanks for sharing.

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  49. Great! Thanks for sharing. Not sure if my comment came through.

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  50. Thanks for posting this! I love your version of the top, and since I'm planning to make one of my own it is really nice to see your version. Now I'm thinking if I should go one size down, too.

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  51. I love the simplicity of this pattern! Ok, your top is enough to make me get off my butt and get some motivation to start cutting out some of my fall sewing projects. I just don't want to let go of summer!

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  52. I love the sleeves- this is so nicely shaped.

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  53. I just found your page and it's just such a treasure of good taste and ideas. Love it! I'm just about to take up sewing again and was thinking about making this sweater as one of my first projects. But I wanted to make it in fleece fabric (I live in Sweden were the cold winter is soon to come). Do you think that could work? There was also a dress in similar style in the same Burda issue (with beginners instructions) which I also was thinking of making in fleece. Would really appreciate your advice on this. /Annika

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  54. Hi, Annika,
    Yes, I think this design is perfectly suited to fleece. Best of luck to you!

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