Bias tape finish for necklines and armholes

Warning: Picture Heavy!

A couple of thoughts before we begin:

- This technique is not for a beginner as several of the steps are very fiddly.
- This technique is also not for someone who likes to hurry through their sewing. It requires patience and finesse. If you are in a rush it will likely frustrate you.

Okay, here we have an armhole of my current project, a knit dress. It is sleeveless but has a bit of a drop shoulder. You want to cut a piece of bias tape as big as the hole with some left over. This piece actually proved to be too short. I always stock double fold skinny bias tape because it has other uses, but you can also use the single fold bias tape. This is regular "Wrights" brand polyester/cotton bias tape available at any fabric store in a variety of colors. The brown isn't the perfect shade to match, but is close enough. IF you are using this technique on a sheer fabric, the tape color has to be spot on.



Iron the tape out flat, then in half. If you are using single fold bias tape, you get to skip this initial ironing. Then fold over about 1/4" from the left side. I start with the left because I am right-handed. Starting on the other side won't make a bit of difference.

Next you'll start pinning it to your arm opening. These handy slide rulers work really well for this purpose, as well as having infinite other uses. Get one!!! You'll notice I'm pinning it to my garment at 5/8", the seam allowance. If your pattern calls for a 3/8" SA, then you would pin it at 3/8" from the raw edge. The fold line of this double fold tape never irons out completely, and you can use it for lining up and later stitching on. Be sure to pin the tape onto the fabric with the fold toward the body of the fabric.

I like to start pinning at the bottom seam line. Can you see it rippling a little there at the bottom? You want to push in as much as the tape as possible between the pins but not enough to cause it to tuck. This is hard to explain. The bottom folded part of the tape is somewhat flush with the fabric and the top will be very wavy. You need this extra ease when you turn it to the inside later.

Here I have it completely pinned except for at the end. You'll want to stop stitching right before you get there.

Now you can see where I stopped stitching before I got all the way around. You can trim off any excess bias tape with an extra 1/4" left over for turning. Now pin and stitch. I know that right bottom bit looks really wavy, but there are no tucks sewn in. If you get a tuck, rip it out and stretch your fabric just a bit when stitching that part.

I've finished stitching and have clipped the corners off. DO NOT CLIP ALL THE WAY TO THE EDGE!

I cut the fabric about 1/8" from the stitching line. You want the bias tape and fabric to be graded in this way to prevent it from being too bulky.

Now turn the tape to the inside and pin. Make sure none of the tape will be visible from the other side. I like to use A LOT of pins, in case you hadn't noticed!

Pay attention at the ends to get them matched up with the seam line and also the same width. I usually slip-stitch the opening closed, although didn't have to here since the two ends meet so closely.

Don't forget to press! You can see here on the outside what a nice and neat finish this creates.

This technique works really well for areas that do not need to stretch much. You certainly could not use it for a small neck opening in a knit or a hemline.