Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Vogue 1285 - Pink embroidered wool knit dress


This month I made a dress using a rose floral wool knit from Mood fabrics. The slight translucency of the fabric reminded me of the envelope example from Vogue 1285, which I have waited 3 years to find the perfect fabric for. I’ve never worked with this thin of a wool knit before and was afraid the fabric would stick to itself too much, especially at the front skirt overlay. Thankfully that wasn’t an issue. Since this fabric contains some wool, it’s a slightly warm dress, and I’ll probably save it for early fall or spring of next year.


I’ve always loved the unique neckline of this design but was never sure what to use for the interfacing along the collar and sleeve bands. Recently I read online of someone using organza as interfacing, so I decided to try that instead of a fusible. This blush silk organza was the perfect match. I sewed it along the edges of each piece that needed interfacing like you would when underlining something. It added the needed stability to those areas but didn’t stiffen the fabric like a fusible interfacing would have. This is a very exciting revelation for me! I never know what to do with see-through fabrics because of the interfacing issue. I’ll definitely be using silk organza as interfacing in the near future.


I thought long and hard about whether to make the darts inverted like the pattern design, but ended up sticking to the designer look. Yes they’re a different look that isn’t to everyone’s taste, but to me they look playful and interesting. I did choose to sew the bust darts on the inside of the dress. Despite being (normally) small busted, I didn’t like the look of those fabric flaps in that area.


I cut this out in my normal Vogue size 12 and had no fit issues. The side zipper was eliminated since the stretch of the fabric enables me to pull it on over my head. I also skipped the sewn in lining because I could NOT find the right color tricot to make it out of. Instead I’m wearing a nude color cami and half slip. The insides are all sewn with french seams since the fabric is so thin and tends to run.


This collar was a bit fiddly to sew. I slip-stitched the under side of the collar along the inside and left off the topstitching. I also put a dab of fray check where the collar notches meet the bodice to prevent any issues in that area. I really like the textural qualities of this fabric, which you can see better in the close-ups.


Two small snaps were inserted where the bodice fronts overlap to keep everything in place.


Sadly this Tracy Reese designer pattern is now OOP, but I’m sure you could find it online on etsy or ebay if you are interested. Not too many people made it up, which surprises me since knit mock wrap dresses seem to be popular amongst the sewing community.

Note: This fabric was purchased with my Mood Fabrics monthly allowance, as part of my participation in the Mood Sewing Network.

48 comments:

  1. I totally jelly. This is so elegant and as always, beautifully sewn.

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  2. Beautiful dress! I really like the collar. It looks great on you.

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  3. Gorgeous dress and you did an amazing job (as always).

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  4. this is great. I think I have no patience for that fabric, but it is fantastic!

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    1. Yeah, it was a little fiddly to use, but a nice challenge too. Thanks Wilma!

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  5. Such outstanding work Amanda! You would never know that you had had 4 children!! Thanks for always inspiring reviews.

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    1. Thanks so much Rosalind! My grey hairs might take argument with that, lol.

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  6. well you did it - you found the perfect fabric for that dress. It is really lovely!!

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  7. I've had this dress cut out for almost a year now! It looks great--and is a reminder that I should get to making my version.

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    1. You are hereby ordered to get moving on it! Thanks Emily.

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  8. Lovely work and a beautiful dress. The bodice details are interesting.

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  9. Impressive! I love silk organza for these special fabrics you don't want to mar with a fusible. :-)

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    1. I'm pretty sure I read about the silk organza tip from you! Thanks Jenny!

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  10. Beautiful dress! Love this fabric.

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  11. Lovely dress. I like the idea of the organza and one I wouldn't think of. I have that pattern in my line up but I don't recall that I knew it was a mock wrap...which I think is better.

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    1. Thanks! I love a mock wrap too, especially with little kids that like to tug on clothing!

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  12. Gorgeous fabric and beautifully sewn!

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  13. Beautiful fabric and beautifully sewn. I keep silk organza in my stash and use it all the time as it's so versatile! Karen

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    1. I guess I need to stock it too. Good thing it's not terribly expensive. Thanks Sewingkm!

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  14. Lovely work on the dress! I have this pattern lingering in my pattern stash. I had forgotten about it until seeing your version pop-up in my blog feed. Thanks for the suggesting on interfacing with organza. I will have to file that tip away for interfacing knits!

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    1. I forget what I've got too. My collection of these designer Vogues is growing and growing, but I keep telling myself I'll eventually get around to making them all. Good thing they don't take up too much room! Thanks TresBienEnsemble!

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  15. Oh this is so elegant! I love that warm blush color of the wool knit, and yes, the textural quality is gorgeous. It's nice seeing this pattern made up, too. I remember seeing it and being on the fence about it, but your version really shows me what a great pattern it is!

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    1. Thanks SallieO! I'm a sucker for fabric texture for sure. And this pattern is pretty plain and simple but for the collar, so I can understand it not grabbing your attention.

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  16. so pretty Amanda, i loooooooooove that neckline! and i'm beginning to think organza is the wonder woman of fabrics.

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  17. Another outstanding dress Amanda!!! Gorgeous!! Make me one (but not in wool as I'm allergic). ;)

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    1. Thanks Kyle! I don't think I knew one could be allergic to wool. My father is allergic to synthetic fabrics, and finding 100% cotton socks was always a challenge.

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  18. Love your posts! I always learn something new construction-wise and the care you put into making your garments is always inspiring. Great dress!

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  19. I have this pattern, but it is shown made up is such a thin knit, that would be guaranteed to show every bump and lump on me, that I never took the time to sew it. What a fabulous idea to make it in a wool knit. It is lovely.

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    1. This wool knit is pretty thin, but not extremely clingy. Also the pattern has a built in slip underneath to hide some bumps, although I left it off mine. Thanks Audrey!

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  20. This is so gorgeous, Amanda! Hey, when you get a second, can you email me at blog@mccallpattern.com? We wanted to ask you something. Thanks! —Meg

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  21. I love the neckline on that dress, though I think you need to get it exactly right to look good - which you have of course!

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    1. Oh thanks Allison. Fingers crossed that it doesn't ravel out in the corners!

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  22. Oh, lovely dress Amanda and that fabric is TDF ! I really love that collar too . I would like to try it on a coat. Silk organza was a great discovery for me too a few years ago and it comes in handy for press cloths too.

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