Monday, August 6, 2012

Butterick 5616 - White textured cotton crop jacket

For the last several years, I have been on the hunt for a casual white jacket. I already have two cropped jackets in my wardrobe - one in denim and one in tan - and they get worn all the time in the fall and winter. I like a casual jacket to be slightly fitted, have pockets or a collar for some volume up top, and it definitely needs to be washable. Not finding any that fit the bill, it finally dawned on me to make my own.


I used a textured medium weight cotton stretch fabric that's been in my stash for at least 10 years. This was the first textured fabric I ever bought. I found it at JoAnn's and loved it so much that I never could decide on a project good enough for it.

The pattern description is for a "very loose fitting jacket", so I cut a size 8 - normally I cut size 10 for my top half. I did not make a muslin because it's not fitted, but maybe I should have. I wanted the length of the cropped jacket but also wanted the bottom band of the regular length, so I chopped 2 inches off the bottom. I also cut 2.5 inches off the bottom of the sleeves because I wanted them to end just past the elbows.


This was suppose to be an easy project as I was coming off yet another wadder, but it was anything but. Even though I'd cut an 8, the back as still really wide. Of course I did not notice this until the back band was attached and completely slip stitched down along the inside. Thankfully I had not yet topstitched. Off it came and I had to go back and taper the side back seams in a total of 2 inches. Those had already been topstitched. The sleeves were really wide as well, and were pulled in a total of 1 inch. The rest was pretty standard as far as jackets go, but my machine did not want to sew the button holes on this stretchy cotton. I had added interfacing along the button band, but only on the top side, so the bottom side stretched horribly. Ripping out teeny tiny machine stitched button holes over and over is incredibly frustrating. I almost threw it in the trash and the only reason I persevered was because I did not want to go another week without something to put on this blog. Funny, right?

Let's just pretend my shirt is not tucked up in my waistband, okay?
 
I eliminated the buttons on the cuffs because I did not want my elbows sticking out of the small openings and also because I forgot to buy the buttons for them. I cut the collar, yokes, sleeve cuffs, bottom band, pocket and pocket flaps on the cross grain. The underside of the pockets and sleeve cuffs were cut in cotton sheeting fabric left over from the lining of this dress. I also underlined the yokes with it so they would not stretch down with the weight of the jacket.

These buttons are pure white, I promise.



You can see the underlined yokes and perhaps the seams finished with my overlocking foot in the next
picture. I've always had some weird fear of underlining but it was actually really easy.




This pattern has a lot of details that make it look like a RTW denim jacket. I particularly love all the topstitching, although you can't really see it with my textured fabric. Now that I've figured out how to get the fit I like, I can definitely see myself making it again.












50 comments:

  1. What a great jacket. I would never have seen the jean jacket details if you hadn't pointed it out. Great eye. I've also wanted a white jacket for dog years but have yet to make one.

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  2. Gorgeous Amanda! This is a closet staple that's sure to give you alot of wear!!!

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  3. Great jacket and as always great fit and finishing. TFS

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  4. Ok I am in LOVE with this jacket! I wonder if I have any white twill up in my stash. Thanks for all the info on the adjustments you made since your fit looks perfect now!

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  5. super sharp! Looks like a great way to polish off a summer outfit.

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  6. Great jacket. That will be very handy indeed.

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  7. You cant go wrong with a cute white jacket. Nice work.

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  8. Amanda, I love it. I am still searching for the perfect pattern for a white jacket and I feel very inspired by you. Thank you!

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  9. Nice use of your fabric. Lovely.

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  10. This looks so crisp and sharp! Really fresh and lovely for days that are only a little cool but not truly cold yet.

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  11. Brilliant making on this jacket. I can see why you want to make another, and another...

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  12. I've been looking for a jacket like this too (though not in white--you're braver than I!) and I really like the result you ended up with. Will have to mull this over a bit more for a couple of months down the road...

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  13. That jacket is AWESOME~! I'm going to have to buy that pattern and make one for myself - I LOVE it!

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  14. Outstanding. Well made and it looks great on you.

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  15. Nice Piece! Luv it as usual!!!

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  16. Very nice! That's one good thing about having a blog, motivation to get something done so u can post it. I'm the same way.

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  17. Wow, I love the jacket, so versatile!

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  18. This looks so fantastic! I'm glad you persevered with it.

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  19. Hi.... I love the jacket....!! fantastic...

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  20. I love the fabric! I also love the jacket. So cute.

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  21. Your jacket is amazing! I am so inspired by your skill. I also love your red necklace! I've been looking for one like that. Enjoy your new jacket!

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  22. Neat fabric. The jacket is cute.

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  23. Super cute Amanda! Great classic!

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  24. Love the jacket. Amazing what we will do for our blogs! Glad you had a reason to perservere.

    SueC

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  25. You are just as cute as a bug: "It finally dawned on me to make my own." Sorry that you had all the agony of unpicking topstitching, ripping and re-sewing and all, but the finished product shines like a beacon in this dark world. Go thou forth and sew this up again.

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  26. Sounds like you're on a roll again.

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  27. Super cute jacket, I made a jacket out of the very same fabric!

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  28. Terrific little jacket. Nice sewing!

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  29. Love it! And you stuck it out through the ripping. Nice work.

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  30. Absolutely adorable! It definitely looks like RTW. You'll get tons of use out of that. And, seeing your version reminds me to not pass up patterns because the pictures on the front are goofy!

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  31. This is a perfect jacket. You will wear it to death. All of that hard work definitely paid off. Thanks for the inspiration.

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  32. Wow! This is stunning! It's so professional-looking, and it fits you beautifully! Great job, you!

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  33. Beautiful jacket. It looks so well and clean finished. Great job!

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  34. Wow, this is absolutely fantastic! I aspire to this level of sewing one day. : ) Great job in persevering and ripping out so many times. Sometimes I just give up and accept less than perfect fitting, but your fantastic finished project is inspiring me to keep going despite the headache. Wonderful job!

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  35. LOVE the jacket! I need things like this because my classroom gets cold, but I haven't taken the plunge into making jackets yet. I really like the fabric; it will go with everything!

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  36. So glad you didn't toss this jacket out!! Totally worth the extra effort to make sure the back fit perfectly =)

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  37. Really great jacket! Your post is timely as I have been mulling this pattern over for my 'Autumn collection'. Now of course I will get it. Great result Amanda.

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  38. Your jacket is exceptional, Amanda! I am really inspired by your work - the fit, tailoring and appropriate use of fabric. :)

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  39. I love this jacket! Definitely worthy of your special fabric. Now I want to get that pattern even though I never make jackets.

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  40. What a lovely jacket. I have a couple of white ones which are a similar shape that I bought a few years ago, they have been worn and washed a great deal. I have bought some fabric ready to make a new one for next Summer. You will get lots of wear out of this I am sure.

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  41. Hi!
    I knew your blog a little while, but I'm enchanted ... you sew very well!
    I'm still taking the first steps ... in fact, the first points (with the help of my mother, that yes, an excellent seamstress).
    You know I have a jacket very similar to this? It is cotton, but it is not lined like her (my mother who did). Because here is very hot, in fact, I live in Brazil. :)
    I hope more eager seams ...

    Kisses from Brazil.

    PS: I use google translator...then probably some words will come out disjointed.

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  42. Wow, this is really lovely... nice work!!!

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  43. Fabulous as always! You've got a great eye to see the potential in that pattern - I would never have gotten past the terrible pictures/illustrations. Makes me really want to get going on the cropped jacket I've been meaning to make for like four seasons now...

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  44. I LoVed all the cranky comments U made about the sewing up of this jacket.U were so honest & I felt exactly how you must have felt tearing out those buttonholes! And yet - VoiLa! a beautiful jacket that looks Much more like a custom coture than just an everday "ready made". Thanx for the sharing!

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  45. i'm so glad that you did not give up on this jacket! It looks great on you!

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  46. What a gorgeous jacket. I wouldn't have even noticed that pattern. You held on to that fabric for a long time, but your choice to pair it with this cropped jacket was a great choice.

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