Wednesday, July 25, 2012

McCall's 6163 - Blue + black geometric print faux wrap dress

I have been working on a dress (not this one) for the past 2 weeks with nothing to show for my labor but heartache. The fabric I picked was a silk/cotton blend that was very soft and very delicate. It was labeled dry clean only but, well, I don't always follow those labels. I wash most silks and all cottons in the washing machine with great results. I decided to wash this one too, did a light pressing, and then cut out my pattern. However, while I was sewing it together, I could not for the life of me get the wrinkles out! If the iron was set too low those wrinkles wouldn't press out but when it was too high it would scorch in a second. The more I washed the scorched parts the more it would resist ironing. After two weeks of making a muslin and sewing/washing that fabric I finally gave up and threw it in the trash can. Not wanting to muslin another pattern, I made up this knit dress.


This ITY knit came in a free bundle from Fabricmartfabrics.com a few months ago. They like to advertise their 10 yard fabric bundles as being worth $75 but all I ever get is cheap polyester linings or thin cotton voile that I never want to do anything with but use for muslining. Maybe I've just had bad luck, I don't know. Anyway, this was the first piece of fabric that I actually liked from one of those bundles.


I like this design for the collar and collar stand, the ruching on the side, the gathered 3/4 sleeves and the look of a wrap dress without the peek-a-boo possibility of an actual wrap dress. This is a straight size 10 and has the perfect amount of negative ease, IMO. Usually I size down for a knit dress but this pattern didn't need it. The side zipper was omitted because my fabric was very stretchy.


There is a center back seam that has a lot of shape to it and makes for a great fit - sway back girls take note! I used bias tape to finish my neckline because I like it and clear elastic and I are not friends. The bottom hem is 1.5" as I just do not like skinny hems at the bottoms of my garments. Otherwise I made no other deviations from the directions. All hems were sewn with a twin needle.


The side tie is completely separate from the dress but I think distracts the eye from any lumps or bumps going on in that area. Also it really looks like a wrap dress with it tied up in the front.


I realize that sewing it up in this busy fabric somewhat hides all the design elements that make this dress cute. Well, what I really wanted to do is make it in an expensive silk jersey. But, I didn't want to ruin my nice fabric if the pattern was a dud, so I used the free fabric instead. I guess you could call this a wearable muslin, although I tend to think of those as garments that get worn even though they aren't that great.


Here you can see the bias tape I used to finish off the neckline. All of the seams were finished neatly with my overlocking foot. Gosh, I love that thing! For the silk jersey version I will interface both the top and bottom collar and collar stand as mine, with their single layer of interfacing, are a little floppy. I also plan to cinch up the neckline about an inch since this neckline is a little loose and the collar likes to slide a bit towards the back of the dress. Just minor quibbles.


48 comments:

  1. I love this dress! I've been eyeing this fabric for ages (they had it for $1.99/yd for a long time- but I imagine it was like "retail value $12/yd" or something to justify the $75 bundle) but never got it.

    Now I'm sad I missed it. I've only made one useable thing from bundle fabric, and I only got 1/2 yd of it so it was barely enough to squeeze out a sleeveless top.

    ReplyDelete
  2. What bumps and lumps? You look fabulous in that dress!

    ReplyDelete
  3. This is absolutely gorgeous, and it fits you so perfectly! You look great, girl!

    ReplyDelete
  4. I have this dress pattern stacked in my Soon to make bag of patterns I love the fit of a faux wrap dress. Love the print.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Me gusta mucho amanda . Te sienta genial y vas so prety . Kisses

    ReplyDelete
  6. Snap! I have the same fabric sitting in my stash.
    This pattern is very flattering on you. It really shows off your slim waist.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Fabulous dress. Is your overlocking foot for your sewing machine? Did you use your serger to sew some of the dress?

    ReplyDelete
  8. Lizzie,
    I don't have a serger. The overlocking foot came with my machine but I didn't know I could finish seams with it until I read an article in Vogue magazine.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Fantastic dress, Amanda, it looks terrific on you. I am with you about the bundles at Fabric Mart, just got one and there isn't much I will use.

    ReplyDelete
  10. The dress looks great on you! I've been meaning to make up this pattern for some time, and I appreciated you informative comments about the pattern. Nice work as always.

    ReplyDelete
  11. I love this dress on you! I might just have to go out and get this pattern even though my body shape is nothing like yours. Thanks for writing a thorough review.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Your dress is beautiful. I've always loved that pattern but for some reason keep shying away from it.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Wonderful dress! Isn't it a nice little treat being able to skip a zipper? I have this pattern, I love your version so much more than the envelope!

    ReplyDelete
  14. I love this dress and I love the choice of fabric! It looks great on you.

    ReplyDelete
  15. That fabric is awesome! Love the dress :)

    ReplyDelete
  16. I think that fabric print is great, best freebie I've seen in a while :) And I don't think it completely hides the great design features of the pattern, great fit, you look fab! xx

    ReplyDelete
  17. Great dress. I love the fabric, fit and style. Very flattering! Btw, I'm sure you already noticed that Vogue stole your fabric. :)

    ReplyDelete
  18. I really like the collar addition to this knit dress. Super fit in a great print!

    ReplyDelete
  19. I think this same exact fabric is used for a faux wrap dress in the Vogue fall line #8825. I think it is... Perfect choice and it looks great on you.

    ReplyDelete
  20. I am sorry to hear about your initial frustrations with the pattern but now the dress has turned out so great and wearable! Great work. I admire your perseverance

    ReplyDelete
  21. I had always wondered about those bundles from Fabric Mart, and you've just confirmed my suspicions. I'm sorry to hear about the silk, but sometimes that's just how it goes. You ended up with a fantastic dress in the end though, and I'm going to have to get this pattern, since it's so stinking cute! (Not that it will look half as good on me as it does on you.....)

    ReplyDelete
  22. You are SO tiny.
    The dress looks great and impeccable construction as always.
    Sorry to hear about your two week wadder. How frustrating!

    ReplyDelete
  23. Have you seen the new Vogues? They have a new pattern that is very much like this dress, and made up in this fabric! I saw it minutes after I saw this dress - you must be prescient! And oh, this looks FAB.

    ReplyDelete
  24. I would never have looked twice at this pattern but it works SO well with the material. I am always in awe of your finishing technique. And now that I've figured out how to bind knits, I will have to copy you more.

    ReplyDelete
  25. I'm always impressed by your construction skills! Very inspirational for me as a beginner sewer. Sorry about the other fabric! So frustrating! I once machine washed a lambswool sweater, oops! A 4 year old probably loves it now, after her mom picked it up from the goodwill :)

    ReplyDelete
  26. Super cute, and I think a great use for that fabric!

    ReplyDelete
  27. Sometimes nothing feels better than to throw a wadder in the garbage! Silk/cotton blends can be tough. Sometimes I have to wash the yardage 3x before it softens up enough to let the wrinkles come out. I always press on a medium setting with lots and lots of steam. It can be a difficult fabric to ease as well.

    I'm another one that hardly ever gets anything good out of the fabricmart bundles. Once I got a beautiful piece of silk charmeuse and another time I got some great quilting cottons to make some children's clothing with, but that's about it.

    ReplyDelete
  28. Gorgeous dress Amanda as always you look stunning. Here is the link to the Vogue dress that is very similar to yours http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8825-products-27100.php?page_id=174

    ReplyDelete
  29. I think absolutely anything is going to look good on your figure! Another lovely dress, the fabric is great, a lucky find in your mystery bundle. Sorry about the fabric you had to throw out, but better to know now than after you finished sewing it I suppose.

    ReplyDelete
  30. I think I will just 'ditto' every comment above - and add well done!!!
    ✿ Judy
    made by J

    ReplyDelete
  31. Ahh another pattern I have in my stash!! Love the fabric and the dress look great on you! Good job! Just the inspiration I needed to give my pattern a try!

    ReplyDelete
  32. Just beautiful! And I really love that fabric - love those colors on you.

    ReplyDelete
  33. Sempre linda! e suas costuras perfeitas ...bjs

    Jubi

    ReplyDelete
  34. I have this pattern cut and never can seem to get around to making it. Your rendition is wonderful and the fabric - Featured in the Vogue Fall 2012 line. Not a bad choice for a wearable muslin!! I'd like to think they got their fabric in a bundle too! LOL!!

    ReplyDelete
  35. What a nice dress! Maybe it is just my screen but is there a tiny ripped thread on the right side (in the closeup-picture of the inside)?

    ReplyDelete
  36. I love this on you! Repeatable!

    ReplyDelete
  37. This is great. You really have a knack for perfectly matching fabric and design. Your dress is fantastic.

    ReplyDelete
  38. Well done! It looks awesome.

    ReplyDelete
  39. Another great looking dress. Love it!

    ReplyDelete
  40. I've recently found your blog and I love your sewing. I'm new to stretch sewing myself and I've never thought of finishing a neckline the way you did. So you definitely just used cotton bias tape that doesn't have any stretch. I imagine it stabilises the neckline. Do you use a stretch stitch for your seams? I think I'll give my twin needle a go for hems as well.

    Great sewing and blog!

    ReplyDelete
  41. Your fit is fabulous! do you use a bodyform? what kind? I know knits are forgiving, yadayada, but this one really fits you perfectly. Impressive, you've got a new fan~

    ReplyDelete
  42. This is gorgeous! I have never been interested in the pattern because the illustrations are pretty meh and raglan can be bad with my narrow shoulders, but this is so wonderful on you that I'm going to have to get that pattern. Dang.

    ReplyDelete
  43. Gosh, that is a flattering dress. Nice fabric choice. I Would love to see a photo of the overlock seams.

    ReplyDelete
  44. I love this dress on you! Great combination of dress design and print, too.

    ReplyDelete