Friday, March 30, 2012

Simplicity 2512 - Pink floral silk charmeuse tulip skirt

I honestly bought this pattern for view D, which I made last October. I never intended to make view B because, although I loved the shaped yoke and contrast binding, I didn't think the tulip shape would look good on me. However, somehow this silk spoke to me and told me it wanted to be this skirt. It said, "Look, I'm a big print so I need something that isn't too cut up. And I'm lightweight so the gathers won't poof out around your waist. And you only have about 11/4 yards of me and can't find any other pattern that will work. Please, give the tulip shape a chance!" Fabric speaks to you sometimes, right? Tell me I'm not the only crazy one this happens to.

 So after my success with silk earlier this month, I decided to listen to my fabric and make the tulip skirt. Success! I think it's pretty cute. I probably will not be making a whole bunch of these - the straight skirt is still my preferred silhouette - but I think it's fun for being different.

Both of the fabrics used are silk charmeuse and were purchased at separate times from Denverfabrics.com. The funny thing about silk charmeuse is that I love to buy it but hate to sew it. Wiggly/shifty/fiddly fabrics are no fun to work with. There are at least 10 cuts of it in my stash that I lovingly fondle and never cut into! However, I have developed a way of working with silk charmeuse that is pain free. First I wash it in the washing machine and dry it. Then I true up one side by pulling a thread across it and trim off the excess. I get it laid out with straight sides and right angles at the trued end and spray it with two coats of starch. (Let one coat dry before applying the other.) It becomes stiff enough to work with and doesn't shift around anymore. Then after the garment is completed I throw it into the washer to remove the starch. I find this method especially helpful when using charmeuse cut on the bias, like the contrasting black on this skirt.

I decided to leave off the pockets because what exactly was I going to put in them except my hands? Also, I thought they might add bulk to the sides and this skirt already had enough extra fabric in that area. I also decided to leave off the ties. The reason for that was I rather like the appearance of a tiny waist that I get when wearing this. Every other part of my outfit is blousy - the waist is the only fitted detail - and I couldn't see putting a tie in that area that would add volume.

I wanted to add a full lining so that I could wear this skirt in the winter with tights. Also, it's silk. I always feel like silk deserves a lining. Now Ambiance is my preferred lining fabric, but I have found that it does not wash well. I went with a polyester chiffon in order not to add bulk to the gathers. It was starched as well.

I had to change the order of construction a bit to get the neat insides I like so much. The facing had to be completely sewn in by hand and the bias binding along the top of the skirt was the last to go on. This way the zipper and any raw edges were totally enclosed by the facings, lining and binding.

That pesky invisible zipper was put in several times before I gave up and basted it in by hand. I never get why some zippers go in really smoothly without much effort while others have me pulling my hair out.

I'm now currently making a muslin of my Easter dress. The plan is to use some gold silk dupioni if I can get the fit ironed out quickly. Eek! I've only left myself a week to get it finished!

54 comments:

  1. Your skirt is exquisite! The fabric is just gorgeous..

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  2. OK yes, Fabric speaks to me too! Lovely skirt. Aren't you glad you listened to your fabric.

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  3. Gorgeous skirt and superb workmanship! TFS

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  4. This looks stunning - the style and colouring is really you!!!

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  5. Your skirt looks great - I'm glad you tried a new silhouette.

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  6. Lovely - I think the styling is perfect, it makes your waist look tiny! I starch charmeuse for cutting, and I agree it makes it tons easier to deal with.

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  7. Gorgeous skirt. I love lined skirts in this shape! I also like your styling - a plain top is a good way to break up a bold print.

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  8. I. Love. Your. Skirt!
    The only colour I really like with black is pink. Everything about this says beautiful.

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  9. Amanda, this skirt is just gorgeous! I especially appreciate the inside photos and the details on construction process, thank you so much:)

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  10. I just finished making this skirt too. I also inserted a lining but I wasn't entirely sure how to do it. I'm not sure I was quite as successful as your version ;)

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  11. Gorgeous - I love how you put a garment together with various fabrics.

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  12. Beautiful skirt, would love a short tutorial on how you made the inside look so pretty.

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  13. Love this skirt, such fantastic fabric. I was pleasantly surprised by how a tulip skirt looked on me as well, because I thought that being heavily pear shaped I shouldn't emphasise it but I really like the tulip shape.

    Thanks for the tips with dealing with shifty fabric too - anything to make that easier is very welcome!

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  14. Very pretty skirt and fabric.

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  15. Very pretty skirt. The contrast black detail just makes it.

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  16. I love the skirt too. Pretty! However, I would suggest Sullivans Fabric Stabilizer spray (found in the quilting aisle) instead of starch, which can burn under the heat of an iron. Don't want to ruin any skirts this way. Also, buy the big can of Sullivans, you will it all AND the little can just spits and sputters before the halfway mark. Sullivans is my favorite sewing tool,next to Sulky wash-away stabilizer.

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  17. This skirt is FAB-U-LOUS!!!! And yes, fabric talks to me, sometimes I can hear it yelling to me what it wants to be while I'm looking at patterns online....

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  18. Beautiful skirt...looks great on you!

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  19. That is such a lovely skirt. I really love the fabric. I have that pattern in my stash and I hope to make it one day.

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  20. That looks so pretty. Good fabric choice for that pattern. I made it in a wool tweed (what was I thinking?) and I looked like tweedledee! And I love sewing with silk charmeuse, it presses well (as all silk does). interesting what you do to prep it.

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  21. This is lovely. I am impressed with your silk managing skills... and thank you for sharing them. I'll soon be sewing some chiffon and I hope that starch will tame it.

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  22. Gorgeous! You've done a great job! Love the way you look in it!
    Also love the fabric choice.
    Simona of http://sewingadventuresintheattick.wordpress.com/

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  23. Oh, such a lovely garment! I agree -- go with the tiny waist whenever you can. Am making a Burda skirt for Easter, from a suit recommended in a recent pattern review in Threads magazine (7349). Had to shorten the skirt by 10 inches: what looked mid calf on model is floor length on me. Happy Palm Sunday and Holy Week.

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  24. Ooooh, even the insides are pretty! Great skirt!

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  25. Stunning. Just stunning. I love the contrast with the binding and the print is beautiful.

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  26. I'm glad you listened to your fabric - your skirt looks fabulous. I like the way you deal with the wriggly fabric too, I might have to give it a go.

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  27. Gorgeous! I love seeing all of your creations - you are so prolific and your results are always so professional.

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  28. It's simply gorgeous. And thanks for the details of construction and the tips for working with this kind of fabric.

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  29. This pattern is truly fantastic- all views come out great, both your skirts are super cute- just purchased this pattern for half price- cannot wait to start making these cutsies

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  30. After looking around on Google for a bow blouse and seeing your impeccable example, I got sucked into your posts because I was so wowed by everything you sew. All the attention to detail and design and they all look so well on you and well done. One day, when I grow up, I'll be able to sew clothing like you!

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  31. DARLING!!! Yours should be on the envelope instead of the one that is there. Your work is so lovely.
    Hugs, Joy

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  32. Thanks for the starch tip for silk.
    Your skirt is lovely.

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  33. This is a very lovely skirt!
    In which form do you have a starch? Do you make it yourself or buy it?
    You might want to lower your camera so you have visually longer legs and your skirt will be shown better. :)

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  34. hi there... scrolling through your blog and seeing the things you've made has made me want to duck into my sewing room, shut the door and sew for myself and not just the children :-).....

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  35. Wait.....you threw silk into the washing machine and it survived? Can you give us the procedure (including what soap) you follow to pull off this miracle? Cindy

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  36. Beautiful skirt. I'm glad you left the pockets off it. Lovely finishings too.

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  37. I love how the skirt turned out. I've marked your helpful hint on the fabric handling for my future projects.

    This is on my long list of somedays and I will keep this fabric in mind to avoid a bulky finish.
    Lovely work again!

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  38. Ƨok şık bir model Ć¼zeriizede Ƨok yakışmış

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  39. I love it, the binding detail really makes the waistband stand out. Thanks too for the tips on working with slippery fabrics, they are beautiful but can be a pain!

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  40. Such a great skirt! Love your fabric choice, it is perfect for the tulip style. I'm going to have to try your silk method. Cutting slippery silk is the WORST. Forget about grain and precision.

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  41. I love this skirt and your recent green printed skirt. The kelly green and the soft pink are colors that look nice on you. However, I think they require a different shirt. Maybe choose a hue or shade from the skirts for matching shirts (that are not the button front type,especially for the pink skirt which dips in front or that has a collar to balance the outfit.) This is just an opinion. Anyway the skirts are gorgeous, and I appreciate your sewing tips about starching the charmeuse before sewing which I will be using for one of my spring projects.

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  42. Marla,
    I agree with you that this is not the right blouse for this skirt. I needed something a little bigger on top to make the waist look tiny, and I just don't have any of that type of top. I tend to wear tighter tops because I'm so small busted. So, I will probably buy something to go with this skirt or make something. However, I disagree about the white blouse with the green silk dupioni skirt. I tried it on with other colors and it really needs something light colored. The collar-less style of this shirt makes the skirt appear less formal/business like. Thanks for the opinion. I really do put in a lot of thought when styling my garments for photographs.

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  43. It is so beautiful, lovely job.

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  44. Gorgeous skirt! I love the design and fabric, plus it looks great on you!

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  45. Amanda, I don't comment much, but I have to today. You are getting better and better at your craft, I applaud you for picking up challenges and doing them beautifully! This skirt, awesome. That color blocked dress, better than awesome. You are amazing!

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  46. What a beautiful skirt and your finish is impeccable, as always. This does look like a fun silhouette to have in one's wardrobe!

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  47. you look is amazing!!!
    Check my blog....new post! If you like...Follow me on Bloglovin, Google Friend Connect and Twitter. Kisses
    www.glamourchocolate.blogspot.com

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  48. Beautiful choice of fabric, and it looks so elegant.
    Thanks for be a follower of my sewing blog Amanda, I am of yours too now.:)
    Ana

    http://licenciaparacoser.blogspot.com

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