Sunday, March 25, 2012

Burda Style 2-2012-117B - Wool doubleknit colorblocked dress

Whew, it has been a busy week! We are having some work done on our house and it is completely ripped apart. Construction dust is everywhere and I keep finding nails and other debris laying around waiting for Rachel to find it and put it in her mouth. (Yes, we are still in that phase.) I finally found some time to snap pictures of this dress today, though it has been finished for over a week.

This is one of the dresses I really loved from the awesome Burda February issue. Since I'm completing it only a month later, I'll just give myself a pat on the back. *Pat-pat* Anyway, I wanted to use a fabric a bit beefier then the jersey they used for the magazine dress in order to better support the back zipper. I had all of these wool doubleknits in my stash already, and really liked the way they looked together. The turquoise was a remnant from Vogue 1150 made two years ago (bangs = what was I thinking?!) The dark grey - looks black - and the turquoise were from Denverfabrics.com and the grey and tan are from Fabricmartfabrics.com. I thought this would make a nice spring dress but the wool makes it a bit hot. Maybe if we get some more days in the 70's I'll be able to wear it.

I was really worried that this design would cut right across the bust making me appear even smaller then I am. I even tried to figure out how to alter it to make the turquoise cut straight across instead of at an angle. But the seams have a lot of shaping built into them and I couldn't figure it out. I took a leap of faith because I didn't want to muslin it and thankfully it turned out just fine.

Now, per the reviews over at Patternreview.com, I sewed the backs together first and then attached the zipper as purely decorative. The pattern instructs you to use a 40" zipper. I wanted a slightly shorter dress then they had, and a 38" zipper would have been perfect. Of course I would need to special order it from Zipperstop in NYC as my local fabric stores didn't have anything that I could use. However, Zipperstop stocks zippers at certain lengths, and 36" is the longest I could find without having to pay a huge amount to have one special made. So, this dress turned out a wee bit shorter then originally planned, but with the high neckline I think a shorter skirt totally appropriate.

I realize an exposed zipper isn't everyone's cup of tea, but I really like how it looks on this dress. The brass teeth tie in nicely with the taupe fabric.

This was a straight size 38 made without any fit adjustments. It was a pretty fast project, the only thing really slowing me down was the constant thread changing.

This is a two-way zipper. If I could have found one that had tape extending past the bottom of the zipper tape I would have chosen that option and had a small back vent. Oh well, sometimes I have to take what I can find.

Here you can see both sides without my arms impeding your view. The sleeves have a fun tuck that keeps the sleeve cap fitted around the shoulder. Since I had sewn the backs together and didn't have the opening for the neck that way, I had to keep the fronts separated per the pattern. Some people who've made this design sewed the front opening closed, but I have a big head and knew this fabric would never be able to stretch over it.


For the insides, I used a finishing stitch that Vogue just published an article about. Too bad I can't find my magazine right now. Anyhow, it was extremely timely for use on this dress, and you can see how all of the edges have been neatly finished off. I'm not sure this would work for thinner knits, but it does beautifully on double-knits. If I find my magazine I will amend this paragraph. called The Overlock Foot starting on page 38. My machine actually came with this foot but I had no idea how to use it. (When I bought my machine the store offered a class on learning how to operate it. I arrogantly thought I did not need to take the class as I had been sewing for years and could certainly figure out its bells and whistles on my own. Well, turns out I should have taken it.) I tried the technique on this dress and to my surprised delight the result looks like a small serged finish. I am excited about the possibilities with this stitch and can't wait to try it out on other knits. And FYI, I do not own a serger because I have no space to put one. I always get that question so I'll just answer it before I get asked.

Also, I applied interfacing to the bottom of the taupe section, in order that the snaps had something stable to be sewn onto.

I like this dress quite a bit. It is an interesting design totally on trend with all the colorblocking I've been seeing lately. Up next is another silk garment in a new-to-me shape that I'm really hoping will turn out flattering. Then I'll have to get moving on an Easter dress before I run out of time!

53 comments:

  1. Great dress - I'm really loving all the colour blocked garments I see lately and yours is no exception!!

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  2. This is incredibly beautiful - and chic. The back is awesome.

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  3. Perfect. Perfect. Perfect! Love it!

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  4. That dress is fabulous!! I love the colours together.

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  5. that looks great. I just purchased this issue as my first Burda mag. but eek, those pattern sheets. now I am not so sure I can do it. However that dress is great so I may get motivated.

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  6. Beautiful dress and I really like the colors you chose for it.

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  7. Great fit and I love the exposed zippers. I always hear them talking about how wrong the designers get the use of color on the runway on Project Runway, and you nailed the color blocking on this dress. I bet you'll get a lot of use out of it!

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  8. This is a gorgeous dress. I love the colours you have used the Blue is just perfect.

    I have nominated you for a Sunshine blogger award see here -

    http://creativecraftwork.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/sunshine-all-around.html

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  9. This is beautiful and so well made. I am in awe of how you got the panels to match up so perfectly!

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  10. Oh, I love it! And I think it would look odd any longer than it is---the length is perfect (especially, as you said, with the high neckline).

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  11. I love this dress on you! This might be my favorite dress or piece you've sewn this year. Great job losing the baby weight! FANTASTIC job!

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  12. I really love that dress. You look amazing in it.

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  13. Perfect. Perfect. Perfect!

    Love it!

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  14. It's beautiful and flattering and even more impressive all your colors lined up! Love it!

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  15. Absolutely stunning and perfectly made! I've been eyeing this pattern for some time so it's nice to see it all made up!

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  16. Amanda. This dress is so amazing I am drooling. Drooling! You should be patting yourself on the back not only for doing it a month later but for how awesome it looks.

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  17. Great colours. Love this style.
    I'm really loving 2 way zips lately. You've used it well.

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  18. Wow, that looks fabulous. I love the colour combo and the fit is perfect.

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  19. Great dress and looks very flattering on you.

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  20. Looks great - the fit is awesome and I love the bright teal with the more muted colors, it adds nice contrast.

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  21. Amanda, what a great looking dress!
    Nordstrom's has nothing on you!
    Question, where did you purchase the long zipper?

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  22. bpatricia74,
    I bought it online at www.zipperstop.com.
    Amanda

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  23. I love the color blocking.

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  24. Nice! I think the back is particularly special because I like the exposed zipper!

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  25. You did an amazing job with this dress! The color blocking is impressive as is your sewing and fit - really impressive! Can you tell me which Vogue sewing magazine has the article on seam finishing? Thanks and congratulations.

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  26. Love this dress, and it looks amazing on you! Interesting color combination. I am also impressed with your fine sewing skills ;)

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  27. Another great dress!

    By the way, I nominated you for the Versatile Blogger Award! Participation is optional. Details on my blog :-) The Musings of a Dedicated Housefiancee

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  28. Your dress looks wonderful. Ah the benifits of being able to use stock zipper lengths!

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  29. The dress really suit you! Awesome!!

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  30. Fabulous dress. So stylish with the color blocking and exposed zipper!

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  31. Gorgeous dress, I love the colour combo and the back view with the exposed zipper is fantastic!

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  32. Lovely, Lovely, Lovely....Excellent Job. Your work is so detailed and I am glad I ran across your blog.

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  33. You look gorgeous in this one (as usual). Love your color choices. That turquoise is such a great contrast with the neutrals, which allow it to shine.

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  34. Lovely dress Amanda! Great choice of colors and that zipper sets things off in the back:)

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  35. Love the dress. The colour combination is fun, yet not too bold. I think it really suits you!

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  36. oh yes, that long zipper makes the dress. I love it!

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  37. Hey, what a coincidence... I'm joining a contest with this pattern next week! wish me luck! :D

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  38. Love the dress, the colors and the zip. We're happy we found your blog, your sewing is great:) Follow you now!

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  39. OMG! Just found your blog and I'm impressed! You make the most beautiful garments! My favorite piece would be this color-blog dress! I would wear in a heartbeat! (I have a Burda-subscription, so I might give it a try). I will so follow your blog from now on! Thanks for a great blog/read! :-)

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  40. Sorry to be late at this party, but I adore your mesmerizing dress! Beautiful work as always.

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  41. Another great dress. Thanks for showing the details from side to side. This is one I was considering for my daughter.

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