Wednesday, January 11, 2012

10-2008-131 - Black & white silk cropped jacket w/ leather details

I've loved this jacket since the issue came out over 3 years ago. You may remember I attempted it before, but chose the wrong fabric. This time around I used a very nice silk suiting from Fabricmartfabrics.com in a smaller scale geometric print.

Now you can see the details of the design. I love the separate collar and lapels and the fact that the collar has a collar stand which makes is stand up crisply. I used black leather for the underarm piping and back triangles since I had it on hand and find it takes to ironing really well. This pattern includes some tabs and buckles on the back sides - which I made as well - but later removed because they were too much.

I wanted my sleeves to look like the example and had to trim 2 inches from their bottoms before sewing the cuff in place. These look a little wrinkled but I have since gone back and starched them. This pattern calls for only the hems of the cuffs to be interfaced which I tried but didn't like. The bottoms were nice and crisp but the tops would collapse when I bent my arm. So I completely left off the interfacing but, if I had it to do over again, I would interface the whole cuff.

Haha - here I am mimicking the magazine pose: 

Raglan sleeves aren't my favorite because they make me look really broad-shouldered. I did put in raglan shoulder pads but later removed them to avoid the football player silhouette. There was quite a bit of top-stitching on this jacket which is always fun for me. You can see the welt pocket opening in this picture. It is a very small pocket and might hold a lipstick.

The back has a small vent detail with leather triangles securing the top and bottom.

Here is a nice close-up of the collar area:


Shoulder close-up:


The full lining was done in Ambiance:

Now, I made a straight size 38 because that is what I had traced from the first attempt. This is a VERY loose fitting jacket. I think they have it pulled back on their example picture because mine is so much looser then their jackets normally fit me. Here is their example:

This is the first time I have experienced garment manipulation from Burda and hopefully it is just a fluke. I was more then a little unhappy with the largeness of this jacket. Of course I could have done a muslin, so I've nobody to blame but myself for being lazy. It's growing one me - and I do like it - but it's not what I had in my mind's eye.

I'll be making a few things for Rachel next from an Oliver + S pattern. Also, the February issue of Burda is another good one that I just placed an order for. Perhaps I should just renew since they have gotten so good lately...

55 comments:

  1. LOVE this jacket on you! The triangles above the back vent, the stand-up collar, and the leather trim are perfection.

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  2. Wow - Amanda, I just love the last few things you've made. This jacket is fantastic, and looks great on you - I loved your Michelle-Obama dress, and your holiday outfit was fantastic as well. Nicely done!

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  3. you are too cute! I just love all of the tailoring details on your jacket. It looks fabulous!

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  4. It looks so professional! You did an amazing job.

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  5. I really like this jacket on you! As always, you do a perfect job "editing" your garments, and the final result is fabulous! I look forward to what you will be sewing for your daughter, Oliver + S has some cute patterns!

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  6. I love the leather trim. It goes so nicely with the jacket.

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  7. Well, second time's a charm, because this jacket looks like it will be a wardrobe staple for some time to come.

    All the top stitching and leather details really make it.

    Is this a pattern one can still buy now?

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  8. The finishing is amazing! (as always...)

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  9. This really is a beautifully made jacket and it looks great to boot. I love the little triangles at the back! I'm in agreeance with you on raglan sleeves - to date I've avoided them like the plague because my shoulders are already broad enough for my liking! Still, I think this look great on you. I'm particularly impressed with your lining finish!

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  10. This jacket is a fantastic work! Wish you to make a tutorial about lining the jacket and leather piping!

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  11. I love this a lot! The color is fantastic on you and the shape is great!

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  12. Wow!!! This is a gorgeous jacket. I loved it since I saw it too but don't have the skills to pull it off.

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  13. The jacket looks fantastic so I hope you will soon get used to the looser than you expected silhouette. I love love love the back detail and the collar.

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  14. The details are fabulous and the smaller scale geometric print a nice surprise when you see it close-up.

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  15. This is lovely jacket and a great atyle for you! You're sewing skills are immpecable.

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  16. Your jacket is beautiful and looks so "you". I'm sorry it's not the fit you were expecting, but I know it will look lovely with a pencil skirt or skinny pants.

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  17. Wow, I just adore all your projects. This jacket is super cute on you and I love the leather accents. Beautiful!

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  18. Perfection, as always!
    I was also thinking of doing my blog poses like the model on the pattern envelope. :)

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  19. Brilliant work - your time and commitment to this pattern certainly has paid off!!! Nice surprises to keep the eye interested...

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  20. How cute!
    I love those little triangles on the back.

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  21. Excellent! Beautiful jacket, Amanda. Haha great mimic of the modeled pose.

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  22. Wow this looks amazing! All of the details are just perfect. I really love the collar, the piping, and the back. Great!

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  23. What a stunning jacket. I love all the little details, perfect as usual.

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  24. Oh me too - I've loved this jacket since it first appeared. I even gathered the fabric and supplies but never got around to making it. Thanks for reminding me. :) I love your version!! Thanks for the detailed post. When I make mine it will help immensely. Enjoy your new jacket. It looks fab! and makes me want to sew mine.

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  25. Beautiful job on the jacket, I love it!

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  26. Your jacket looks amazing, great job.

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  27. Outstanding craftmanship Amanda! I love your jacket....

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  28. What a smart looking jacket with awesome details. You did a beautiful job on it!

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  29. You did a stellar job on this jacket - and you look fabulous in it!

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  30. Great jacket and very well made, love the leather detailing. Looks fab on you! x

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  31. Truly lovely. I love the colour and of course the leather trim and echoing some of the above comments - you look fabulous wearing it too!

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  32. I love the leather accents. great job.

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  33. Beautiful detailing on that jacket. The black leather piping is scrumptous!

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  34. That jacket is fabulous! Thanks again for sharing your work. It serves as great inspiration!

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  35. Gorgeous! Did you match the geometric pattern on purpose?

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  36. You are an inspiration to me! The black leather accents really elevate the jacket to "something special." Beautiful work, as always.

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  37. Another great garment. I just love the details and the craftsmanship of your work. I just finished listening to the Podcast with your interview, I learned quite a bit from it.

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  38. As always you did a great job. I wish I had your precision and attention to detail.

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  39. I just love that jacket. The details are wonderful. But I know my daughters like fitted jackets better also. But it is just an adorable jacket.

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  40. Gorgeous jacket! I find that cropped style SO wearable, and the leather detailing is so nicely done.

    I remember this jacket from this issue - I've made so much from this particular magazine but I never got around to this jacket.... yet!

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  41. Awesome jacket. Beautifully made and good fabric for it. Always loved this jacket from that issue, never got round to making it. So nice to see it again.

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  42. Oh Amanda, that is just so gorgeous. You have done a fabulous job. Always loved that pattern too!

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  43. Fantastic jacket. The fabric is interesting as well as the collar/lapels. The leather details make it so interesting.

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  44. Beautiful jacket - very elegant! The fabric is perfect for this classic part. Great job!!!

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  45. Amazing jacket! It's the perfect fabric too. And your topstitching is immaculate! I really need to practice more, I guess, I'm not very good and it can really make or break a coat!

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  46. Impeccable sewing, as always! I think the leather piping trim on the raglan sleeves is very flattering...no football shoulders going on at all! I love the triangles on the back.

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  47. This jacket is gorgeous. I really like the leather piping. The triangles on the back really bring the whole garment up a notch - so chic.

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  48. Beautiful and very elegant jacket. Love the leather piping for this jacket.

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  49. I love your back detailing but now I am curious as to what you ended up taking off.
    The fabric this time really shines with this pattern.
    I like the slight swinginess on you.

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  50. I have just found your blog, and seen this wonderful jacket, it looks great - well done!

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  51. This jacket is absolutely beautiful. I love the leather details and everything else about it. you look so cute in it!

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  52. I am loving your blog! I sewed when I was younger and have recently returned, due in part to the desire of my daughter to learn. I already have several fabrics and patterns waiting to be made. Keep up the good work!

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  53. Awesome jacket Amanda!!!! LOVE IT!!!

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