Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Modified Burda 9-2009-127 - Navy blue wool cropped jacket

Back when I made plans for this dress, I knew I wanted a matching cropped jacket to go with it. So an extra yard of wool was ordered with no real pattern in mind. Surely a cropped jacket pattern could be located, I told myself. The trouble was, I decided I wanted the EXACT look of the one paired with my dress pattern. Here's the inspiration picture from the December 2008 Burda issue:

Not only could I find no cropped jackets - I guess they're out of style? - I couldn't even find a full length jacket with a similar neckline. This is where sewing your own clothes and having a collection of Burda magazines comes in handy. I started with the pattern for this jacket:
Which is a perfectly fine pattern but I had initially passed it by for being somewhat plain. It is full length, double breasted, has raglan sleeves and a wide collar. Not at all what I had in my mind's eye but I thought it might work after some re-drafting. Ta da!

And here it is all buttoned up, although I doubt it'll be worn this way. These buttons are from Hancock's - $3.50 for one card of 2 plastic buttons!!! I don't get button pricing. However, I only needed two cards and always purchase at 50% off sales.

This is what I did to alter the pattern:
1. Converted the front from double breasted to single button closure. I simply measured over 7/8" from the center front for my new edge. Ditto for the facing. And incidentally, this design has the facing and jacket front as one piece, which I don't particularly care for. I cut them out individually.
2. Converted the sleeve pieces from 2 piece raglan to one piece with a regular sleeve cap. I have decided I don't like two-piece raglan sleeves on my body as they never sit right and the only raglan shoulder pads I can find are a little too thick.
3. Extended the shoulders by 1". This was another step in getting rid of the raglan sleeves.
4. Cut the collar width down by 1". I originally put it in at the full size but it looked too much like a sailor's collar to me. I also cut the collar down at the center back the same amount that I had cut off the double breasted front. I think it was 1 7/8" or there about.
5. Cropped the length of the jacket and the sleeve length. These sleeves hit right below the elbows and are super cute. You will think so too when I am able to get into this outfit.
6. Added shoulder pads. I ALWAYS add shoulder pads to jackets and keep them in stock in my notions bin. These are 1/2" covered set-in shoulder pads - I think I had a question about them awhile back that never got answered. Sorry! I like just a little shoulder definition in a jacket.

The fabric is a lovely wool crepe from Denverfabrics.com. The lining is navy ambiance purchased elsewhere online. Fabricmart.com? Fabric.com? One of those. I LOVE online fabric buying! Receiving a package in the mail is just like getting a gift to me.

Here's a picture of the full lining. I have made so many jackets now that I never have to consult directions anymore. My favorite part of sewing them is the step where you stitch the lining to the outer fabric, grade all the seams and turn it to the right side. One minute it looks like a hot mess and the next it's morphed into a beautiful garment.

This is a full view of the jacket with the dress. Does this look a bit retro to anyone besides me? Like a Jackie O. 60's suit maybe? I love it!

By the way, this is my jacket for September. I still owe myself a jacket for one of the M months and for August, and I will try my hardest to get them all in. But next up I am having a go at some baby clothes. I went to JoAnn's last night and bought 4 cuts of fabric for a few winter garments for Rachel. Infant winter patterns are hard to come by. I thought I had a good selection but most of it is summer stuff. I'm pretty excited about these little outfits!

44 comments:

  1. Amana, this is such a lovely jacket! Your modifications are perfect and I love the style and added touch of the buttons. This jacket is definitely "Jackie-like". Can't wait to see your baby outfits!

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  2. What a beautiful suit! You will wear it for years.

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  3. Beautiful work! And your daughter is adorable, too. :)

    Question - when you fully line a jacket, where do you leave a hole for turning it right side out? Do you leave the bottom edge of the lining loose or do you leave a side seam on the lining not fully stitched? Thanks!

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  4. Your jacket looks awesome. I love the jacket and dress together. You are amamzing being able to continue to churn out gorgeous outfit throughout your pregnancy and now into your babymoon, and homeschooling and goodness knows what else. So inspiring.

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  5. The suit is stunning! I love all the care you took with the details!

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  6. That is a beautiful suit and it does look very retro---very Mad Men. You always do a fabulous job on your sewing.

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  7. Beautiful transformation! It is hard to find good winter styles for children's clothing. I like the Patti Reed and Daisy Kingdom patterns. Can't wait to see what the baby sewing brings forth.

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  8. Beautiful jacket for your dress. They look perfect together!

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  9. Great jacket, you've got a very polished and elegant look going on there! Nice work! Don't even get me started about button prices...

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  10. Lovely jacket! I'm sure you'll have this classic for many years to come. Love the buttons too. Nice find.

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  11. Very pretty suit, so retro and so chic.

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  12. This outfit is just toooo gorgeous! Great work on making the jacket. I bet you can't wait to fit into all these great garments you have been making :)

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  13. Absolutely fantastic. Very clean lines and sophisticated looking. The buttons are the piece 'de resistance.

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  14. What a beautiful ensemble ! Welldone on the jacket pattern redrafting that looks like hard work .

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  15. Adorable outfit! I hope you plan to post pictures of the baby clothes you will make!

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  16. This is a lovely outfit and you did a great job completely transforming the jacket pattern into the exact one you wanted. In theory you need never buy another pattern again....!

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  17. I agree with Carolyn, Amanda. It is *stunning*! You did an amazing job. I agree that buttons seem expensive. I think with buttons the cost is all in the logistics and packaging.

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  18. The jacket and dress combination is fabulous! I bet navy is "your" color, too. As to infant winter patterns: have you tried Ottobre? You MUST! (Sorry for shouting. You must!) They have the cutest baby patterns, and being Finnish, also quite a few winter ones (adorable snowsuits etc.). Here's a link for an in-depth look at the different Ottobre issues: http://www.ottobredesign.com/

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  19. This jacket is totally gorgeous - I love how you have designed it yourself to make the perfect look. The buttons are just right. You are right in that it does have a lovely retro look but it also looks very modern and cool - it's Mad Men meets Jackie O!

    I'm very eager to see Rachel's winter wardrobe!

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  20. All I can say is WOW! The alterations on the jacket blow my mind, but you did them perfectly. The whole ensemble is gorgeous.

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  21. Looks wonderful Amanda! By the way, I really appreciate you, because i'm pregnant too (33 weeks)and can't sew as often as before.

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  22. Gorgeous outfit! But we need a gratuitous, on-topic shot of that gorgeous little girl, too!

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  23. Your jacket/dress is scrumptious! You did a terrific job of re-drafting the jacket pattern. As Shirley Adams always said in her TV series, "when you sew, you can have anything you want". You have proved it!

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  24. You'll turn heads in this outfit. It is so beautifully made, as usual. I can't wait to see what you make for your Rachel (I have a Rachel too!)

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  25. That's great combination. The jacket is lovely and that dress gorgeous. I really think you are right: It's definitely retro looking, very nice!

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  26. Sigh. If I could effectively line a jacket I would sew them all the time. This is beautiful.

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  27. And...if you ever get bored...(hee hee)...I, for one, would love to see a picture or two of your conversion from raglan to set in sleeve. I just can't picture it. Or did you borrow a "shoulder" from another pattern? Head spinning.

    Dress and jacket are just beautiful!

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  28. You are so talented! I LOVE the transformation of the original pattern to the cropped jacket you came up with. Absolutely beautiful, and a great color combo to boot!

    Also, I am super excited to see what you are seiwng for your little one! I am sure it will be just as wonderful as the things you have shown us already.

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  29. You have got to be one of the most prolific sewers I have ever seen! That jacket is Jackie O all the way and absolutely TDF.

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  30. Soooo cute. I always put shoulder pads in jackets, too. Even if they are only 3/8". They really do add a bit of shaping and structure.

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  31. Such a smart classy outfit with the jacket. It is just perfect. I am very excited to see what you are making for Rachel. How fun!

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  32. You are a very talented seamstress. I am very impressed by the quality of your work. I wish I was able to sew lihe that !

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  33. Beautiful suit! For winter infant garments, check Ottobre, they have tons. You can also order back iddues or get them on Ebay...

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  34. Beautiful as always! It definitely has a retro vibe... it's an awesome outfit!

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  35. Lovely outfit - and I second what Uta said - OTTOBRE! They have lovely things for all seasons, but they are hands-down the best source for winter kids' clothes.

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  36. I'm currently working on this jacket, too. Yours looks beautiful. I like your changes!

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  37. I love the changes you've made to this jacket! I made it in it's original form, but now I'm thinking a second version might be needed stealing your changes - that collar is far cuter!

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  38. LOVE the idea of making this pattern single-breasted. It really is the perfect little matching jacket for this dress. I may be copying you someday.

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  39. Beautiful jacket for your dress- very elegant!

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  40. The dress by itself was just fantastic, but it's even more amazing with that jacket. Beautiful job on taking the original pattern and transforming it into a cropped version.

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  41. This is a beautiful outfit! How did you make the jacket so "crisp", was it the interfacing?

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  42. what a smashing outfit!!!! it is very retro, in a GOOD way!

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  43. What a gorgeous suit! I would love to wear that in white, when I get married! If only I had that issue of Burda. (insert dreamy look here.) ;-)

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